Browning BAR Semi-Auto
I bought this rifle new in 1989 and I love it. It is a .30-06 and it has done a great job as my deer rifle.
The first few years I shot factory ammo, but then in 1994 a buddy of mine created some reloads for me. They are a 165 gr. Ballistic tip on top of 58 grains of IMR 4831. That is a terrific deer round and I have been using that recipie ever since.
My problem started two years ago. I was in a stand with my 12 year old son on his first deer hunt. It is a great story and bottom line is in the end my rifle was broken.
The bolt would not close because the lugs in the bolt were not lined up properly with the barrel.
The local gunsmith fixed it, but I did not shoot it until this year Labor Day weekend. I only shot it 4 times before I had the same problem. I took it back and he fixed it again. I had it out again last weekend and it only lasted 3 shots this time.
I took it back to the gunsmith and he said that my loads must be generating too much pressure because it is sheering off a quarter inch pin.
I have a hard time believing that my loads are all of the sudden too hot...I had shot that load for 14 years without a problem. When I get the gun back I am going to run a bunch of factory ammo thru it just in case the reloads might be the problem...I am also getting my loads pressure tested.
Does anybody know what pin in the action could be getting sheered off and what else could be causing the problem?
Any thoughts, comments or advice would be appreciated.
You're not holding the rifle close enough to the computer for me to see. :rolleyes:
POSSIBLY part #12, cam pin. Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - The World's Largest Supplier of Firearms Parts and Accessories
You may want to check some reloading manuals- I did a quick check for 30-06, and could not find IMR 4381 loads listed. Lot of IMR 4831 loads, tho.
Do I need to hold it closer to the monitor or the CPU??? Or should I wave my mouse over it???
That part looks like it could be the one he has replaced...since now it will have been broken and replaced 3 times, does that mean that maybe it is getting loose?
The load is in my hard-cover Nosler book, it is a max load, but an action that also works with 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag should be able to handle a max .30-06 load...
I got the results back from the pressure test on my hand loads and the highest pressure was 54K...the max pressure is 60K, so I don't think my handloads are causing the problem.
I wonder what is causing that cam pin to get sheered off...
STOP. Do you have a reloading manual?
I am showing that your buddies loads are over 1 gr above MAX in my Sierra 5th edition.
My Hornady says your ok as does my lyman.
Did you load these or did he.
the pressure test was it done in your rifle? Because you chamber is different than what ever rifle they tested the loads in.
I am going to say back off and start at 52gr and work up and see if you get signs.
My Nosler Reloading Manual Number Four says the load is OK.
The loads were not tested in my gun, but since they were not near the max I am not worried about them. If for some reason my rifle causes those loads to be high pressure, wouldn't it make factory loads high pressure?
They should be similar to factory rounds, so the gunsmith should be able to duplicate the problem when he test fires the gun.
I'm just wondering what could be wrong with the rifle that can be causing that cam pin to sheer off after only three shots...is it loose or is something else out of wack...
My loading manual says that you are 2 gr. over max for that bullet weight and powder. Could be the problem???
The temperature of the weather when you shoot can make a lot of difference in the pressure of a load.
The part that is breaking is the timing latch...part #65...see the schematic from post #2.
The gunsmith replaced it and then he shot it with Winchester factory ammo and it broke on the 8th shot...he could not believe it.
Any idea why this would be breaking???
Qualifying yourself as a "Gunsmith" requires more than some tools and a sign that says that you are one. I was a smith for a gun company and have worked on several hundred BAR'S. I still think they are the best semi-auto on the market.
Its my guess that if you are shearing a "pin" its the timing latch pin. I have seen them shear before (usually to hot loads) but NOT often. Also check your gas piston for being free. I have seen more pistons stuck to the rear that wouldn't let the bolt close all the way than I ever saw sheared "latch pins". Just a thought but check it out. The gas piston MUST be free moving.
I also have to honestly tell you that I don't very much about reloading as I've never done much of it. I was able to buy factory ammo cheap enough that it wasn't worth my time.
I just saw the note that that the pin broke after 8 rounds and made another thought pop into my head. When the "gunsmith" worked on the rifle he MAY have drilled out the gas port to an oversize hole. Many of the "EXPERTS" out there do this and it will GREATLY increase the action of the bolt which could be shearing off the latch pin. IF that's what happened they can be repaired by drilling and tapping the gas port and then putting in a plug and re-drilling the port to the proper size. It's NOT a real big deal but you need a jig to do it. I've done dozens of them myself. At the BrowninG service dept. it would take less that an hour.
Was this ever resolved?
I was reading through the post. I have a BAR 30-06 as well that breaks the timing latch pin every time after 5 - 18 rounds. It does not matter what ammo is shot through it. I have shot reloads and factory ammo. I will also add, the last time it broke....... It knocked a plug out of the rear stock. It knocked it out just above where the but stock screw goes into the rear of the receiver. In the top crown of the stock about where your nose would be while firing the gun. This leads me to believe the slide is coming back to far and possible jamming the firing pin while in the rear position of the cycle.
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