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Old 07-07-2013, 09:34 PM   #161
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Now you guys done it. Now I want to refinish my K98.

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Old 07-07-2013, 10:02 PM   #162
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Now you guys done it. Now I want to refinish my K98.
Send it to me!!
I'll use as close to original materials.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:27 AM   #163
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JP I would and without a doubt I know I would get it back. But I need something to do during this hot summer.

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Old 07-08-2013, 12:28 AM   #164
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But what would you charge me if I screw this up?

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Old 07-08-2013, 12:35 AM   #165
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But what would you charge me if I screw this up?
Castor, if you take your time and do it right, i seriously doubt you'll screw it up. look at what Anna did on her first time doing a stock refinish. and we're here to help if you need it. if it helps try it out on a junker first. that what i did years ago for my first one. a beat to hell, drug down the mountain looking old Winchester model 94. it wasn't near as difficult as i thought and after i had my friend do the blueing, and put it back together, i sold it about six months later for about three times what i had in it.

i got faith in ya! i think you can do it!
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:04 PM   #166
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I want to put a good recoil pad on my Remington 700, and I need to flatten the butt of the stock to do this. What would be the best way to do this accurately without damaging the finish or chipping the wood?
You can buy a pre-fit recoil pad from a couple mfg's. Why do you need to flatten the butt of the stock?

A Table saw would work great for this if you have an angle miter gauge like this-

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004787/7574/incra-miter-gauge-v27.aspx

If you need to shape a recoil pad to the stock,a belt sander works best. Just wrap the stock with several layers of masking tape to keep from sanding off the finish.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:21 PM   #167
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You can buy a pre-fit recoil pad from a couple mfg's. Why do you need to flatten the butt of the stock?

A Table saw would work great for this if you have an angle miter gauge like this-

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004787/7574/incra-miter-gauge-v27.aspx

If you need to shape a recoil pad to the stock,a belt sander works best. Just wrap the stock with several layers of masking tape to keep from sanding off the finish.
I looked into the pre fit pad option long ago. It seems none of them would fit my rifle just right. They'd always be a little off. (found this out be reading reviews, finding the pad's specs, and measuring the butt of my rifle.

I have a table saw, and a miter say, but neither of them have a blade that is suitable for this task. I'd have to go buy one.

The stock has to be flattened to accommodate the pad. The pad's base is not curved like the rifle was.

I got the pad today, so I looked at my rifle to see how much material had to be removed. It ended up being a very small amount. I just went ahead and used the belt sander to flatten it and square it up. It worked pretty good for this. I would have went with the bandsaw if a lot of material had to be removed, but like I said, there was very little that had to be removed.

The fit on the pad is not absolutely perfect, but it's pretty close. I may end up shortening the stock later the shorten the LOP, but I want to put a few rounds down it first to see how it feels.

I'll post some pics later.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:27 PM   #168
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I refinished my first deer rifle a few years ago. My grandfather had it built (sporterized) back in the late 50's-early 60's by Master Gunsmith Paul Jaeger,it's a Remington 1903a3 30/06. It suffered some moisture damage from getting left in a wool lined case in a closet when I moved 13 years ago,and stored most of my firearms at my folks house and forgot about this rifle for several years.
It had surface rust all over the metal surfaces,but luckily,no pitting. I had everything re-blued,and I refinished the stock,it had 3 generations of blood,sweat,tears built up on the wood.
When I had it apart,I had the gunsmith install a muzzle brake on this mule kicking thing,and I installed a Timney trigger on it.





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Old 07-09-2013, 11:52 PM   #169
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Very nice! What kind of finish did you use on the wood?

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Old 07-10-2013, 12:11 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by texaswoodworker View Post
I looked into the pre fit pad option long ago. It seems none of them would fit my rifle just right. They'd always be a little off. (found this out be reading reviews, finding the pad's specs, and measuring the butt of my rifle.

I have a table saw, and a miter say, but neither of them have a blade that is suitable for this task. I'd have to go buy one.

The stock has to be flattened to accommodate the pad. The pad's base is not curved like the rifle was.

I got the pad today, so I looked at my rifle to see how much material had to be removed. It ended up being a very small amount. I just went ahead and used the belt sander to flatten it and square it up. It worked pretty good for this. I would have went with the bandsaw if a lot of material had to be removed, but like I said, there was very little that had to be removed.

The fit on the pad is not absolutely perfect, but it's pretty close. I may end up shortening the stock later the shorten the LOP, but I want to put a few rounds down it first to see how it feels.

I'll post some pics later.
IMO, i would use the finest blade available for a table saw. and the finer the better to prevent as much splintering as possible. going slow and easy.

the LOP is one of the ways to make a rifle fit you and a well fitting rifle shoot much better and you will be more accurate, because you will have a more consitent cheek weld and sight picture.
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