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Old 07-07-2013, 03:00 AM   #151
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the best way is with a band saw.you normally only have to remove about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch to get it flat enough and most recoil pads are generally thicker that the buttplate being replaced. second best option is a table saw.

most people that do alot of them make a jig to hold the stock at an angle to allow the cut to be vertical to the fence. this way the cut is perfectly parallel to the existing end of the stock.

also before cutting, check the spacing of the screw holes in the recoil pad. if they are much closer together than the existing butplate, it may not be needed to cut or sand the stock as the recoil pad may conform to the curvature of the stock. i have done this many times on mine with not having to make any cuts.

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Old 07-07-2013, 04:10 AM   #152
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I have a Savage 11 chambered for the .260. It was WAY too big for what we have in southeast Arizona so I contacted E.R. Shaw and ordered a 24" .243 barrel with 1:8 twist. It just might arrive in a couple of months. They were booked up. I have a Nikon 3x9 I'm taking off and saving for a spare. When I get this put together I want to bump the scope up to a variable 12 power scope and put a bi-pod on it. My intention is to sight in with Winchester 100 gr power points then work up loads using Nosler 90 grain Accubonds and H414 powder. This setup should do everything I could ask of it for what we have here. Keeping my fingers crossed. Post pictures when I'm done.

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Old 07-07-2013, 04:17 AM   #153
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I have a Savage 11 chambered for the .260. It was WAY too big for what we have in southeast Arizona so I contacted E.R. Shaw and ordered a 24" .243 barrel with 1:8 twist. It just might arrive in a couple of months. They were booked up. I have a Nikon 3x9 I'm taking off and saving for a spare. When I get this put together I want to bump the scope up to a variable 12 power scope and put a bi-pod on it. My intention is to sight in with Winchester 100 gr power points then work up loads using Nosler 90 grain Accubonds and H414 powder. This setup should do everything I could ask of it for what we have here. Keeping my fingers crossed. Post pictures when I'm done.
Toad, looking forward to seeing it! please post pictures of before and after. and some during if possible. would give some idea to others how it's possible for a pesron to rebarrel a Savage without a lot of special tools and how it can be done at home. thanks for sharing!
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:18 AM   #154
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the best way is with a band saw.you normally only have to remove about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch to get it flat enough and most recoil pads are generally thicker that the buttplate being replaced. second best option is a table saw.

most people that do alot of them make a jig to hold the stock at an angle to allow the cut to be vertical to the fence. this way the cut is perfectly parallel to the existing end of the stock.

also before cutting, check the spacing of the screw holes in the recoil pad. if they are much closer together than the existing butplate, it may not be needed to cut or sand the stock as the recoil pad may conform to the curvature of the stock. i have done this many times on mine with not having to make any cuts.
I may wait and use a bandsaw next time I can then. I know it's not much material. I think the hardest part is going to be keeping the stock square to the blade. I'll figure out something.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:39 AM   #155
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I may wait and use a bandsaw next time I can then. I know it's not much material. I think the hardest part is going to be keeping the stock square to the blade. I'll figure out something.

Thanks for the tip.
the ones i have seen are angled shims that allow the stock to be perfectly vertical to the surface of the saw. IOW's a 90 degree angle. if the stock is layed flat on the surface of the saw it would be off somewhat.

google installing recoil pads. lots of good videos explaining how it's done.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:43 AM   #156
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i'd like to discuss methods of refinishing the metalwork on a bolt action. blueing has been used for many years and is still a popular method.

DuraCoat seems to be a good option for the DIYer. it's available in many colors.

what about synthetic stocks? they can be painted very easily as well. the key is proper prep work. the stock needs to be clean and free from any dirt or oils. my favorite method for the initial cleaning is a good detergent like Dawn and a ScotchBrite. does two things. it cleans and also roughens the surface for paint. my favorite product for final cleaning prior to application of paint is alcohol. using a clean cotton cloth or paper towels.

i also use an adhesion promoter that is available at most auto parts stores that carry paint supplies. i use a very light mist coat of adhesion promoter. let dry and then apply the first base coats of color i want to use. many lighter coats are preferable to a few heavy coats and allow ample time in between coats. when finished you can opt to use a clearcoat if desired. as most of mine are done in a camo type pattern, i skip this. most any quality spray paint will work just fine if you prep properly. the best paint in the world won't be a substitute for improper prep work.

when i do a camo finished stock i make my own stencils and also use natural vegetation for effect. i also mist the edges as i don't like hard edges in my finished product. IMO it makes for a more natural effect.

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Old 07-07-2013, 06:16 PM   #157
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So early this morning I applied another coat of Tung oil to my stock I am refinishing. this is what I have so far:



Hard to tell with the glare, but so far its looking pretty good. Once it dries some more I will be able to dull the gloss down a bit to more of my liking. I have about 3 more coats to go before I start to let it really cure and put it all back together.

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Old 07-07-2013, 06:20 PM   #158
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Anna, beautiful job! it looks awesome. for your first stock refinish, you have done an outstanding job.

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Old 07-07-2013, 06:22 PM   #159
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Thank-you Jonas. So far its been a fun project to try. I can't wait to put the hardware back on it. But I am in no hurry as I need to buy some small pistol primers before I can ever shoot it.

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Old 07-07-2013, 07:46 PM   #160
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That is some nice looking wood! (I try to be careful saying that)

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