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Old 07-03-2013, 12:24 PM   #131
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Thanks you guys. And yes, it is my first ever attempt of refinishing a gun. Now I just need to decide on what kind of finish, using the boiled linseed oil, or the tung oil, etc. And I do think just getting the wood wet with stain will be dark enough for me, no need to add more color.
I think tonight I will do another coat of remover to get some spots I noticed that didn't get removed, and then on to the store to buy some sand paper.
Anna, try some of the Scotch-Brite pads instead. looking like it does, you might not even need to use sandpaper. should be able to find them at Home Depot or Lowes in the paint department close to the sandpapers.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:24 PM   #132
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I agree with primer1. That European Walnut is nice and dark and there is good stacked parallel grain that will look great with just oil finish and no stain. Boils linseed oil tends to dry faster between coats than straight ting oil but the results will be similar once you're done.

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Old 07-03-2013, 12:29 PM   #133
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Anna, try some of the Scotch-Brite pads instead. looking like it does, you might not even need to use sandpaper. should be able to find them at Home Depot or Lowes in the paint department close to the sandpapers.
I agree here too. I don't see any major dings or scratches that you need to get rid of. Unless you can see some major scratches that we can't in the pictures, the scotch bright pads should be fine. At the very most, only fine sandpaper would be needed at this point. Most folks need to go from coarse to fine sand paper if they were using sand paper from the beginning to do the finish removal, or if they were reshaping wood. Since you went with the gentler chemical removal and nylon brush, you shouldn't have any if the deep scratched that 60 and 100 grit sand paper leave in the wood.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:18 PM   #134
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I agree here too. I don't see any major dings or scratches that you need to get rid of. Unless you can see some major scratches that we can't in the pictures, the scotch bright pads should be fine. At the very most, only fine sandpaper would be needed at this point. Most folks need to go from coarse to fine sand paper if they were using sand paper from the beginning to do the finish removal, or if they were reshaping wood. Since you went with the gentler chemical removal and nylon brush, you shouldn't have any if the deep scratched that 60 and 100 grit sand paper leave in the wood.
exactly. the less aggressive that you have to go with sanding the better. Doc is spont on with his suggestions about sanding and wood removal. another reason for my suggestion for using the Scotch-Brite pads is that it's less likey to damage any of the checkering. if using sandpaper, be very careful when sanding near the checkering. sand with the grain whenever possible.

before applying any finishes, buy a tack cloth and use it before to get any sanding residue or dust off the surface. you can usually find them in the paint department or many auto supply stores that sell paint and body work products will have them. they are cheap and will cut down on lots trash being in the finish. well worth the small cost.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:49 AM   #135
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I have one bolt action rifle - CZ 527M...what it looked like when I got the little gem,





And after a buddy gunsmith took an idea of mine and ran with it,








This group was fired at 110 paces, standing.



It was the best of a good day.

Action is pillared and bedded, and he pillared and bedded the old stock as well, just in case I wanted to switch back for any reason.

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Old 07-04-2013, 12:59 AM   #136
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I have one bolt action rifle - CZ 527M...what it looked like when I got the little gem,





And after a buddy gunsmith took an idea of mine and ran with it,








This group was fired at 110 paces, standing.



It was the best of a good day.

Action is pillared and bedded, and he pillared and bedded the old stock as well, just in case I wanted to switch back for any reason.
very unique and i like it! very different than the norm for sure. it looks like it would be fun to shoot as well. thanks for sharing that with us!

and that's thinking outside the box for sure!
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:12 AM   #137
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So I went to the store today for lunch and bought me a scotchbrite pad and some tongue oil. (Dang that stuff tastes nasty!)
I spent all last evening putting a 3rd coat of finish remover on, and then sanding the entire gun stock with 300 grit sand paper.


As soon as I came home today from work I used the tack cloth as suggested and removed as much of the dust as I could from the stock and the checkering and swivel screw holes, etc.
Here is what I have so far after 1 coat of 'Tung' oil, and then rubbing it down with a dry cloth after it dried a bit:



a close up of some checkering:

All in all I am happy with it so far, and can't wait to do another 8 coats of the Tung oil or so.
Thanks again to everyone for the helpful suggestions.

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:21 AM   #138
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looks awesome Anna! great job so far. just think when you finish, you'll have a beautiful rifle that you refiinished yourself that you can be proud of, and have that satifaction of now you can do something without having to pay someone else to do for you. just think of how you'll look differently at some of those used rifles at the gun store or pawn shop now! be suprised at what a little bit of money and some labor can do to a cosmetically challenged rifle.

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:22 AM   #139
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Armoredman: nice! It looks like an unissued mosin and an AK got a little too drunk one night...

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:29 AM   #140
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Armoredman: nice! It looks like an unissued mosin and an AK got a little too drunk one night...
dammit Primer! LMAO, and that was funny!

BTW, you now owe me a monitor cleaning!
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