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Old 01-03-2013, 08:53 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovco

Where'd you get that brake? I like it.
Thank you, I built the break when I worked in a machine shop a few years ago.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:12 PM   #42
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This is a friend of mines. It's a 700 varmit clambered in 308.
Bell & Carlson stock
Badger Ordiinance base and rings.
Vortex scope
Damn good shooting gun
He has shot as far as 600 yards with it.

20130104_115803.jpg



20130104_120048.jpg

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:05 PM   #43
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Does anyone know if the rem 700 sps tactical can shoot NATO 7.62x51? Or is it strictly .308 win?

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:09 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andlar View Post
Does anyone know if the rem 700 sps tactical can shoot NATO 7.62x51? Or is it strictly .308 win?
Yes it can......
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:12 PM   #45
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This is going to be first time shooting it so I'll breaking it in is that is that still ok ?

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:20 PM   #46
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From everything I have read it is safe. I have never done it in my rifles. I know people who have. It shoots fine.

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:22 PM   #47
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My favorite ammunition is federal power shock. Price is right and it performs good for hunting and Target shooting.

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Old 01-06-2013, 01:08 AM   #48
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A good hand finish lapping should do the trick. Less money spent on ammo and shoulder feels better afterwards. Not to mention the barrels seems easier to clean afterwards and doesnt foul as bad...

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Old 01-06-2013, 01:27 AM   #49
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What do mean hand finish lapping

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Old 01-06-2013, 03:12 AM   #50
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or true lapping you have basically two alternatives: hand lapping and firelapping. The first normally uses a lapping slug on the end of a cleaning rod that is cast into the muzzle of the bore by plugging the bore back an inch or two with patches or paper and pouring molten lead into it. Grooves similar to lead bullet lube grooves are cut into the cast slug with a knife or a gouge to hold abrasive compound. The lap is loaded (the grooves filled) with abrasive and run back and forth in the bore by hand. It's s common to use something like 320 grit silicone carbide lapping compound (Clover compound, for example). The slug is usually pure lead so that when it encounters a constriction it is narrowed and does not spring back out after passing through it. In this way all abrading on subsequent strokes is only in the tight spots. When you feel it stop cutting tight spots, you can bump the lap back up with a brass rod and hammer, and go at it some
more. You keep repeating until the bore has no more tight spots and the lap feels smooth down the length of the bore.

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