.270 long range?
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.270 long range?


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Old 04-13-2008, 02:06 AM   #1
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Default .270 long range?

So this summer I'm looking into shooting competitively with a friend of mine. Seeing as that I'm on a budget and cant afford to buy or build a new weapon anytime soon I will be shooting my Marlin MR7 in a .270. So far I am able to shoot 1 MOA up to 400yds. I haven't shot much past that to have a good idea of my accuracy. My question to you guys; is the .270 a capable caliber up to say 8 or 900yds? I know a lot depends on the rifle and ammunition, as well as ambient conditions. I have been searching for awhile and have been unable to find much info regarding the .270 and shooting long range. I would really appreciate your input on the caliber as well as what I could do to my rifle to make it more accurate. Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:47 PM   #2
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..just a guess,i would say that it would be a great round..
but i know the 30-06 the bullet grain can be lowered alot
for long range shooting my guess the 270cal will be the same??
they will be a reply come threw with a good anser
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:59 PM   #3
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I think in the right hands the .270 COULD be used at those extreme ranges, but before we get to that point, can you give me some idea of what your Marlin MR7 is/has been done to it?

Generaly speaking, for long range shooting, if you have a factory action, that hasn't been blueprinted, with a basic scope ( 10X or 12X ), a thin "sporter" style barrel, no glass bedding, or things of that nature, you are probably going to get your @ss handed to you. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but a factory stick isn't going to be able to compete.

The good news is, some easy mods can be had for not a lot of money, so please give us a run down of your rifle and perhaps we can help you get in the money. *thumbs up*
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Old 04-14-2008, 12:05 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Dillinger View Post
I think in the right hands the .270 COULD be used at those extreme ranges, but before we get to that point, can you give me some idea of what your Marlin MR7 is/has been done to it?

Generaly speaking, for long range shooting, if you have a factory action, that hasn't been blueprinted, with a basic scope ( 10X or 12X ), a thin "sporter" style barrel, no glass bedding, or things of that nature, you are probably going to get your @ss handed to you. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but a factory stick isn't going to be able to compete.

The good news is, some easy mods can be had for not a lot of money, so please give us a run down of your rifle and perhaps we can help you get in the money. *thumbs up*
Basically the rifle is factory except for a little trigger work. I have a Harris Bi-pod and a Scheels 4.5-14 prower scope on it right now. I know the scope is pretty low-end, and I've been researching new ones but I can't make up my mind yet. The problem I'm running into is the lack of aftermarket support for this weapon. I would like to be able to put a heavy barrel on it with out having a custom one made. I know the action is very similar to the Remington 700, and if it's possible I'd like to use either a McMillian or Choat stock. Of course, neither company lists any products for the MR7. If any of you have suggestions or ideas on how to improve my rifle I am all ears.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:03 PM   #5
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Well, I did some reading on the Marlin MR-7 and there is good and bad news. The good news is that it resembles a Model 700, which has a ton of parts and goodies available for it.

The bad news is that I couldn't find anyone out there that is marketing for it specifically, so it might not be a direct drop in style replacement.

I have never handled one before, so I am just going off the pictures and write ups that I read.

Optics will go a long ways towards helping with your score, but I don't think you need to start there. I assume you will be reloading your own ammo for competition? Fire formed brass in your chamber is more accurate than off the shelf ammo, plus you can fine tune for bullet speed and grouping accuracy.

From the write ups, it would appear the stock is pillar bedded to the action, so you could improve on that with a glass bedding procedure and make sure the barrel is 100% free floated for harmonics. You should be able to run a dollar bill from the end of the stock all the way up to the action without any problems when done correctly. Again, I haven't seen your weapon, so I am kind of talking generalization here.

A new firing pin, made of titanium, is a drop in replacement item and will cut down lock time. It will also generate less forward inertia which does unseat the bolt VERY briefly when it bottoms out on the inside of the bolt itself. Not a big deal, but we are talking budget fixes here that can add to accuracy.

Are you shooting from the bipod or standing/sitting/kneeling across the course style? If not from the bipod, lose it obviously and get yourself a good quality leather sling. Something you can really cinch up and make a good platform to shoot from.

A good recoil pad will take some of the sting out of the shot, can be had for pretty cheap and is easy to install. If the weapon is a pleasure to shoot, you will shoot it more, which will only make you better in the long run.

Outside of that, you are getting into the $$ category of stripping it down, blueprinting the action out, getting a custom barrel for it and having it fitted, getting a new custom stock for it and basically rebuilding from the ground up. You can do it all in stages, but it will cost you some money to do it right.

Hope that helps.

D
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:47 PM   #6
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IF the gun is accurate and capable of consistant MOA accuracy it should be a decent starter rifle. For very long range work you will also need a bullet that is accurate at those ranges. Generally, boat tail bullets on the heavier side work better as they A. drift less in the wind and B. stay supersonic at longer ranges. Bullets tend to get goofy when they drop below Mach I. The turbulence caused by the breaking of the sound barrier (in reverse) is very detrimental to accuracy. Most long range shooters use heavier bullets as they stay supersonic longer.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocop10mm View Post
IF the gun is accurate and capable of consistant MOA accuracy it should be a decent starter rifle. For very long range work you will also need a bullet that is accurate at those ranges. Generally, boat tail bullets on the heavier side work better as they A. drift less in the wind and B. stay supersonic at longer ranges. Bullets tend to get goofy when they drop below Mach I. The turbulence caused by the breaking of the sound barrier (in reverse) is very detrimental to accuracy. Most long range shooters use heavier bullets as they stay supersonic longer.
Once I start shooting competitively I will be shooting hand loads from brass I have already fired. Thanks for this info though, as I was probably going to go with a lighter bullet, somewhere around 130 grains. I think I'll up it to 150 or 160 depending on what the guy that does my reloading recommends.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillinger View Post
Outside of that, you are getting into the $$ category of stripping it down, blueprinting the action out, getting a custom barrel for it and having it fitted, getting a new custom stock for it and basically rebuilding from the ground up. You can do it all in stages, but it will cost you some money to do it right.

Hope that helps.

D
I'm not afraid of doing it right, and spending the money in stages to make it right. Do you, or anyone else have a recommendation for a custom barrel? As this would probably be my first major upgrade, seeing as I can free float the walnut stock easy enough my self a custom stock could be put on the back burner for the time being. Also I know a very good gunsmith that could work my action over. I'll have to talk to her and see what kind of deal she could work out for me.

Thanks a ton for the input thus far, I'm really looking forward to learning more!
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:24 PM   #9
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This might be a double post - I thought I had entered a response, but when I came back to check it for spelling, it's not there. Hmmmmm

There are quite a few really excellent barrel makers up in Minnesota. I don't know what is in the water up there, but they sure can turn out some good barrels.

Krieger is the barrel I have on each one of my rifles and they are a very good brand. Excellent reputation and they stand behind their products.

Recently my 'smith put a Mike Rock 5R barrel on his .308 Winchester and that thing shoots AMAZING. It's definitely one of the best shooting barrels I have ever seen. I am considering having mine rebarreled in the Fall with a 5R myself.

Either one of those is a good quality rifle barrel that will treat you right. There are others out there ( Shilen, Douglas, Hart ) but we use pretty much Kreiger in the shop.

If your stock is wood, you definitely want to glass bed that baby before competition - I have never seen a comp rifle that wasn't.

D
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:09 AM   #10
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Interesting, I live just over an hour away from Krieger. I'll have to give them a shout sometime and see what they can do for me. About how much should I expect to spend on a finished barrel mounted on my action from them? I don't want to sound like too much of a newbie when I call.
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