Kroil on an M1A bolt?
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Kroil on an M1A bolt?


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Old 08-06-2014, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default Kroil on an M1A bolt?

I've never used Kroil, but heard a lot about how strong it is. I have an M1A bolt that's impossible to disassemble, even with the tool that Brownells makes. My question is, would it be a good idea to apply Kroil to something so expensive if I make a mistake? (ie; use too much)
If you think Kroil would be a good liquid to use on this, how would you apply it?


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Old 08-06-2014, 11:32 PM   #2
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Kroil is a commercial penetrating oil, used by professional mechanics and machinists. It will not make a bolt dissolve. It is capable of getting between two bits of metal that fit very closely together. It is available as a liquid, and as a spray (Aero-Kroil).

Use too much, wipe off the excess.


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Old 08-06-2014, 11:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c3shooter View Post
Kroil is a commercial penetrating oil, used by professional mechanics and machinists. It will not make a bolt dissolve. It is capable of getting between two bits of metal that fit very closely together. It is available as a liquid, and as a spray (Aero-Kroil).



Use too much, wipe off the excess.

My problem with the bolt is the I can't get the extractor out, I should have been more specific. Do you think Kroil would loosen it up enough to take it apart?
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICleanBrassWithJager View Post
My problem with the bolt is the I can't get the extractor out, I should have been more specific.
When compressing the bolt/ejector with the tool, don't force it hard against the stop. Ease up on the lever a bit to align the punch with the stem of the extractor. Pushing too hard on the lever will cause the punch to bind and/or hit the edge of the extractor hole in the bolt body.

If you just work the lever back and forth a little while pushing up on the punch, it will move freely when it's properly aligned.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=16360
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highpower View Post
When compressing the bolt/ejector with the tool, don't force it hard against the stop. Ease up on the lever a bit to align the punch with the stem of the extractor. Pushing too hard on the lever will cause the punch to bind and/or hit the edge of the extractor hole in the bolt body.

If you just work the lever back and forth a little while pushing up on the punch, it will move freely when it's properly aligned.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=16360

Wow.. I should think more. I'll give it a shot tomorrow, thank you very much for the tip.
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:55 PM   #6
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Metal to metal issues kroil is the best penetrant on the market. If your problems in carbon . GM Top engine cleaner # 1050002 more commonly known as chevron techron and mercury quick silver .
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:02 PM   #7
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Metal to metal issues kroil is the best penetrant on the market. If your problems in carbon . GM Top engine cleaner # 1050002 more commonly known as chevron techron and mercury quick silver .

Thank you, I'll consider it.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:34 PM   #8
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Our armory uses Kroil and has since I got there, which wans't a while ago lol but as far as I know, it's what we use and have been using. I'm a new generation smith so I haven't been exposed to "every" product out there but Kroil was one of the first. As hardluk1 stated, if the issue is carbon, kroil will not be the best way out. Good luck, keep us updated.


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