canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:08 AM   #1
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Default canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions

michigan0626 posted a couple questions about cleaning his new Colt's Rail Gun so I thought I'd post this "canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions" for you guys to digest.

THIS IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL OF 1911 CLEANING!

This is not a FireArmsTalk.com endorsed or condoned procedure. It is however, a process applied by this 66 year old gun totin', retired engineer and grumpy 'ole codger that has served him well. So no flaming posts please, just PM me with your suggestions/corrections and I will modify this guide.

Best advice, buy the highest quality cleaning supplies and tools you can afford!

Good cleaning tools are an investment and should have as much pre-purchase research as did your gun selection.

I've used them all and can save you the time and $$$ with my recommendations. (Just remember this is subjective and don't get yourself confused with the Chevy vs Ford thingie.)

Here are my minimum requirements for gun maintenance: (provided links are for visual reference, SHOP around!)

Hardware (get dedicated tools and keep them in a cleaning box marked 1911 Cleaning and don't mix them with your other gun/caliber equipment.)


Consumables
  • Solvent(s) Get the Hoppes #9
    I like/use Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent - MidwayUSA
  • Lube
    I blend my own. Cane's "Mobil Mystery", 90% Mobil 1 / 10% Marvel Mystery.
    +
  • Patches (get caliber-specific size patches and DON'T mix them!)
  • Q-Tips (can't clean guns without them!)

For protection; I've just started to use this stuff, it looks promising.

Frog Lube



As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning;
  1. The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff
    This consists of a field strip removing only the;
    • mag
    • slide release
    • bushing
    • barrel
    • spring
    • guide rod

    Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

    Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

    I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
  2. The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub
    Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
    1. Sights
    2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
    3. Grip bushings
    4. Ejector

    While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.


    • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
    • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
    • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water. Attachment 39979
    • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
    • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

    This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..



    Trigger Bow ^



    Slide stop ^



    Barrel ^

    Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

    If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
    After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)

Tips:
  1. Use only properly sized tools (if you don't have that .45 bore brush, get one!)
  2. Clean your gun barrel in the same direction the bullet travels (on your gun, with the barrel removed, push the brush from breech to muzzle, remove the brush and pull the rod out, IOW, don't run it back-and-forth)
  3. Use a fresh patch on each pass (patches are cheap, barrels are expensive)
  4. DO NOT drag a dirty patch back through the "just cleaned" barrel
  5. Disassemble your gun only to the level required to access areas where fouling reaches
  6. Cleaning your gun requires a clean work area. The idea is to remove, not add dirt
  7. When it comes to lube, lighter is better (pass a lightly lubed bore mop 2-3 times instead of a oil soaked and dripping mop once)
  8. Lube needs to be present, not seen (visual) to work (see # 7 above)
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Last edited by canebrake; 07-25-2012 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:21 AM   #2
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WOW. I'm not sure if I'm 100% on board with the entire process...I'm still way too much of a 1911 novice to have formulated any tried and true rituals.

But I greatly appreciate the time, detail, and shared knowledge that was poured into this post. I'll probably reference this more than a couple times in the coming months and maybe even years. Well done CB.

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Old 06-26-2012, 12:23 AM   #3
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Thanks cane, awesome write up and great detail...

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Old 06-26-2012, 12:32 AM   #4
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Great write up Cane.

One thing I might add is that I used Rem Oil exclusively as a lubricant and I ended up having it gum-up an old Mossberg shotgun when it was cold. I like to use it as a coating to spray over my guns to prevent rust while they are stored. Not sure if others have experienced the gumming problem with Rem Oil or not though.

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Old 06-26-2012, 12:47 AM   #5
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Thanks Cane...great post. Have used your Mystery Oil recipe on several guns with good results.

A self-serving sticky seems appropriate...

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Old 06-26-2012, 12:59 AM   #6
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Great write up, I also use pipe cleaners to do quick cleanings under the ejector.

Looks like frog lube was in the grips too??

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Old 06-26-2012, 01:28 AM   #7
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Great job cane as always thanks for the great info. Keep up the great work and look forward to the next one.

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Old 06-26-2012, 01:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olympus View Post
Great write up Cane.

One thing I might add is that I used Rem Oil exclusively as a lubricant and I ended up having it gum-up an old Mossberg shotgun when it was cold. I like to use it as a coating to spray over my guns to prevent rust while they are stored. Not sure if others have experienced the gumming problem with Rem Oil or not though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdiver35 View Post
Great write up, I also use pipe cleaners to do quick cleanings under the ejector.

Looks like frog lube was in the grips too??
I'm using FrogLube for everything EXCEPT my G10 grips. (The Colt's Grips in the photo are wood and FrogLube is 100% safe to use on them.) It is in the canebrake preliminary testing process but it's looking good! I have all but eliminated the use of Rem Oil in my gun maintenance. (I too have found it to be a problem in cold weather applications. That's why I switched to synthetic Mobil One.) I bought an olive oil pump spray unit to apply the custom blend "canebrake Mobile Mystery Oil" application.

Misto Olive Oil Sprayer, Amazon

I use this and it works well! What's 10$ when it protects q 1K$ purchase?

I'm just sayin'.

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Old 06-26-2012, 02:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Further, some in the precision rifle community have commented that the interaction of the ammonia in bore solvent and the chlorine in brake cleaner can cause corrosion or accelerated wear/etching in 416 stainless barrels. I prefer not to risk it, so I don't put brake cleaner near my guns.
Taken from the 10-8 Performance Blog, http://10-8performance.blogspot.com/ , It was in their "1911 User's Guide" post cleaning section, http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User%27s-Guide.html .

Is this something to consider? I would have never thought of something like this.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Further, some in the precision rifle community have commented that the interaction of the ammonia in bore solvent and the chlorine in brake cleaner can cause corrosion or accelerated wear/etching in 416 stainless barrels. I prefer not to risk it, so I don't put brake cleaner near my guns.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michigan0626 View Post
Taken from the 10-8 Performance Blog, http://10-8performance.blogspot.com/ , It was in their "1911 User's Guide" post cleaning section, http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User%27s-Guide.html .

Is this something to consider? I would have never thought of something like this.
There's an app for that;
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