Uberti Stallion problems - Page 2


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Old 01-28-2013, 04:25 AM   #11
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That gun has a base pin safety. It has two notches on the base pin. One notch is safe the gun will not function the other notch is fire. This is a "Swiss Safety".



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Old 01-28-2013, 04:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by nitestalker View Post
That gun has a base pin safety. It has two notches on the base pin. One notch is safe the gun will not function the other notch is fire. This is a "Swiss Safety".
It does indeed have two notches. I didn't know it had an official name, thanks for telling me that. I was aware of the function, however, that was not the problem. When the cylinder pin is pushed all the way in, the hammer is physically moved away from the gun. So it is very visual when the safety is on and the gun doesn't go bang.


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Old 01-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #13
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So you are saying that the ejector rod is always protruding like in your last pic?
It should not. Something is not letting it return all the way. Weak spring, or a burr in ejector channel or something.

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Old 01-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #14
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O.K. When you push the ejector rod head "down" the cam slot forces it rearward slightly, so the protrusion.

With the ejector rod head in its full forward position, the base pin should be held captive, that is, still retained in the gun's frame, but forward enough to clear the window opening in the frame and allow cylinder removal.

Is this not the casde?

Bob Wright

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Old 01-29-2013, 02:37 AM   #15
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O.K. When you push the ejector rod head "down" the cam slot forces it rearward slightly, so the protrusion.

With the ejector rod head in its full forward position, the base pin should be held captive, that is, still retained in the gun's frame, but forward enough to clear the window opening in the frame and allow cylinder removal.

Is this not the casde?

Bob Wright
The problem is with the design of the gun. The cylinder pin can't be removed unless you move the shell extractor rod knob down and out of the way of the cylinder pin. This is the move that requires an extra hand, because you have to pull the extract rod knob down while making sure you have a cylinder chamber to accept the slight intrusion of the extractor rod, while depressing the cylinder pin release knob. The instruction do not cover any of this. I think the gun was built wrong from the factory.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:17 AM   #16
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Well, seems to me the obvious thing to do is remove the ejector assembly when removing the cylinder. Just one screw needs to be removed to do that. Then cylinder removal would be easy. You could probably find a base pin without the Swiss Safe feature to cure that problem. Or have your gunsmith shorten the base pin.

Built wrong? No. Poor design, maybe.

Bob Wright

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:13 AM   #17
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Well, seems to me the obvious thing to do is remove the ejector assembly when removing the cylinder. Just one screw needs to be removed to do that. Then cylinder removal would be easy. You could probably find a base pin without the Swiss Safe feature to cure that problem. Or have your gunsmith shorten the base pin.

Built wrong? No. Poor design, maybe.

Bob Wright
You're right. Poor design. I do love the revolver. I was just learning process figuring out that best way to break it down. To shorten the base pin enough to give it enough room to come out without moving the shell extractor rod, would cause the pin to be too short. I can live with it now that I have learned my hard lesson.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:42 AM   #18
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It shouldn't be too short. Push it all the way in. measure or mark the part that sticks out. Cut it, and sand its edge.

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Old 08-03-2014, 03:44 AM   #19
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Howdy!
Thought I might throw some info at this topic, even though it is a bit of an old post.
My Wife and I are both cowboy action shooters, and she has three of these little guns--two Lightnings with 3 1/2" barrels and one Stallion with the longer barrel.
We purchased these guns a long time ago, and Uberti has made some manufacturing changes over the years, particularly in the firing pin bushing and the firing pins.
One of the two Lightnings we originally purchased had such a poorly fitted firing pin bushing the entire gun had to be replaced by Uberti. After that we did install lightened mainsprings in both and they shot perfectly. We picked up the Stallion used from a cowboy shooting Pard, and it too always fired flawlessly.
Jumping forward about fourteen years and suddenly one of the Lightnings developed an intermittent light primer strike problem.
In an attempt to fix the problem I installed a brand new Uberti factory mainspring--no joy, same issue. Next I miked the firing pin to see if it was on the short side--it wasn't (note: there are multiple firing pins available for about three different revisions of these little guns).
So, I decided to shorten the inertia firing pin return spring, and cut about 1 1/2 coils from that stiff little spring in 1/2 coil increments hoping that the firing pin would travel farther yet still retract. This seemed to improve the light primer strike problem but the gun still wasn't 100 percent.
In another attempt to determine what the problem was, I once again removed the one-piece grip and noticed that it was very hard to pull the backstrap and grip free. Upon further inspection I discovered that the Uberti standard mainspring was wider than the light mainspring we had been using all those years, and that the mainspring was in fact DRAGGING inside the one piece grip. A couple of minutes with the Dremel tool inside the wooden grip made all the difference.
In summary, a way-too-old lightened mainspring put the little gun in trouble, and the "fix" was a new, standard factory spring, but that led to interference with the grip and the mainspring.
Any way, all is good and the guns are running at 100 percent again.



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