I just picked up a 38spl uberti stallion from my local gun shop last week. Of course, I took my new gun to the range and shot a few rounds. FIrst shot was a bullseye. I'm going to like this little gun...I thought. Next trip to the range I took some of my favorite 148gr wc handloads. Every other round was a misfire and it appeared to be light hammer strikes. Took it to the gun shop, the gunsmith adjusted the springs and back to the range, and I only had one misfire from a box of 50. Okay, it's getting better...I thought. Last night, I was going to practice trigger control and loaded it up with snap caps and the cylinder seized up like it was welded shut. After a few minutes of gently "massaging" the cylinder, it broke loose and appeared to function normally. It froze up one more time, and I got it to loosen again. I really like the little gun, when it fires, it is very accurate. This is a colt 1873 repoduction. Anyone have any thoughts? thanks for your time
By seizing up,do you mean the cylinder stop is staying in the up position?
I can tell you the cylinder would not move and the trigger and hammer were virutally inoperable. As I gently worked the cylinder, slowly back and forth, it began to give a bit and then, with more force than I was comfortable with, I was able to cock the gun and dry fire it. I dry fried it with snap caps several more times and it seemed to work ok. I'm sure mechanical issues don't just go away. Any help would be appreciated.
Do you bring the hammer back all the way after loading?
SA revolvers need the hammer to go full swing. Normal half-cock to load (1-0-1111), bring the hammer back completely, then slowly lower. It should be on an empty chamber.
Going from half-cock directly to lower is not a good ides.
I keep that in mind. I have 2 other 1873s and they are all mechanically about the same. Actually in this scenario, I had just loaded the snap caps, pulled the hammer to full cock (from half cock) and dry fired. When I went to cock the hammer again...it was seized up.
I see that there have been several viewers of this post. I'd like to say, that after a lot of study and screwing up I have determined what I was doing wrong with this revolver. Here are the issues encountered when taking this particular gun apart. While it's a beautiful weapon, I think it wasn't made right.
1) the shell extractor rod it too short to allow for the extractions of the cylinder pin so...
2) it is necessary to push the shell extractor down to pull out the cylinder pin...so
3) when the shell extrator is push down a very small (but significant) portion of the extractor moves forward pushing against the cylinder, therefore...
4) even though the cylinder pin is gone, there is enough pressure from the extractor rod on the cylinder to "hold everything in place".
Once I noticed what was going on, all the problems on seemed to go away. In closing, I want to say, this little gun is an absolute joy to shoot and very accurate. It's just a pain in the rear to take apart and put back together. So if you are in the market for one, make sure the Uberti you are looking at has an extractor rod long enough to allow for the removal of the cylinder pin with no manipulation of the extractor rod.
What you have said doesn't sound right to me - the ejector rod spring should keep the ejector forward, toward the muzzle, so that the ejector rod never bears against the face of the cylinder.
There is a spring in the ejector rod housing?
Note most Ruger single action revolvers have base pins (cylinder pins) with heads too long to prevent complete removal of the base pins without removing the ejector housing assembly. The base pin can be pulled forward enough to clear the frame for removal of the cylinder. Maybe the Stallion is made this way.
But from you post, you were dry firing without the cylinder pin in place?
Last edited by Bob Wright; 01-28-2013 at 02:16 AM.
In some single action revolvers you must remove the ejector rod housing screw and housing before removeing the cylinder or axis pin. This is how you remove the center pin in a Black Hawk .30 M1 caliber revolver.
I expect the OP has a badly fouled cylinder pin. The front Boss on the cylinder can allow fouling to blow back around the pin and lock the rotation of the cylinder.
Pictures are worth a thousand words. The first pic is the gun and how it looks fully assembled. The next pic shows that the cylinder pin hits the shell extractor knob. The next pic shows that the cylinder pin is too long to be pulled out with moving the shell extractor knob down, allowing the pin to be removed between the shell extractor knob and the barrel. The last pic (you have to look close) there is the slightest extension of the extractor rod when being pushed down. This was enough to cause the cylinder to jam. Now that I've learned how to take this apart, it's not as traumatic as it was, but it is a pain in the rear. You need at least three hands to do it right, and my wife refuses help.