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-   -   sp101 springs? (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f16/sp101-springs-37437/)

usmc0811 01-26-2011 12:20 PM

sp101 springs?
 
how many springs are in the revolver? is it 1 or 2? i want to make my triger pull lighter and need to know what spring i need to change. i am going to be getting a 357 3" in march. i want to keep the primer strikes hard. are they different springs. i know there is one in the grip area but what about in the triger area? i will be ordering springs from wolf soon.

NGIB 01-26-2011 12:35 PM

While I have an SP101, I've never broken it down. On a S&W revolver, the 2 primary springs are the mainspring and the trigger rebound spring. I generally change the trigger spring to a lighter version but I never change the mainspring for fear of light strikes.

Just did some Googling (it is your friend) and the general consensus is to lighten the mainspring to 10# or so and leave the trigger spring alone...

Doc3402 01-31-2011 12:41 PM

I did a spring job on my daughter's SP-101 using Wolf springs. I replaced the mainspring with the lightest choice and she was not happy. It fired flawlessly, but the trigger pull was still too heavy for her tiny little hands. After a trip back to dear old dad's house for a replacement of the trigger spring she fell in love with the gun and carried it for months.

The funny thing is that she replaced the SP with an LCR. The SP after the kit has a better trigger pull than the LCR out of the box, but the LCR is lighter to carry.

spittinfire 01-31-2011 12:50 PM

To lighten the trigger you can replace the mainspring and the trigger return spring. I used a Wolf spring kit in mine with the lightest springs they offered and it really improved the trigger pull. I've shot from mild 38s to hot 357s and it's just as reliable as before.
I also polished the surfaces but if you decide to do that be extremely careful and go very slow. You are removing metal and the goal is only to smooth, not change dimensions or angles of anything.

Doc3402 02-01-2011 10:11 AM

NGIB

I have never had a problem with light strikes on a Smith if all I changed was the weight of the two springs. I have had problems when I change spring geometry. If I try to loosen the mainspring tension screw for a lighter pull I get failures on almost any Smith I try it on. Back in the old days a popular practice was to actually grind down the mainspring, and I still didn't have light strikes. In a S&W it seems that within rational limits the geometry is much more important than the weight of the spring.


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