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Old 12-22-2011, 12:48 PM   #11
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I've had 2 double action revolvers (out of about 50 that I've owned) that had trouble in firing single action. One was a S&W model 57, a double action .41 magnum. I bought it used, and apparently the previous owner had done a DIY "action job" on it. If i cocked it I'd better keep it pointing at the target, or at least downrange, because if I breathed near the trigger or otherwise made any king of a motion, the hammer/sear engagement would slip and the hammer would fall. Just touching the trigger would set it off. I didn't keep that gun very long. The other trouble revolver was one of several Charter Arms Bulldog Pugs I had. They all were perfectly OK except for one. On it, occasionally the hammer would get stuck in the middle of its stroke when I tried to cock it. I had it worked over by a local gunsmith, and it was just fine after that. The 'smith said he removed a burr. If the action is too stiff you can get it lightened, but I don't know if a "hair trigger" situation can be remedied without buying new parts and getting them installed properly.
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:56 PM   #12
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No, the last I checked metal can only be removed, unless one uses a welder, in which case they would have to get the profile and shape perfect, and then there's a chance of breakage.

I'm pretty sure that even the most professional gunsmiths replace internals instead if welding metal to them.....
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:23 AM   #13
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Actually it depends on why the sear is not engaging the hammer correctly. As a previous poster described, some DIY "trigger jobs" are less than perfect. Sometimes this can be remedied by recutting the hammer hooks with a triangle stone. This is not something that an untrained person should attempt, as the geometry is critical to proper function.

I cannot count how many times I have corrected this type of problem for customers that wanted to save money by doing their own trigger work. This tedious procedure is time consuming and expensive but generally cheaper than parts replacement on "pre-MIM" Smiths. I used to refer to this type of repair and associated cost as a "stupid tax". Unless you are very familiar with the internal workings and geometry of a particular gun, you are better off to pay a professional for proper modification of action components.

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