school me on lock up and timing
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:58 AM   #1
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Default school me on lock up and timing

How do you check timing on a smith and wesson revolver.

Also, how much play in lock up is acceptable?

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Old 10-08-2010, 07:23 AM   #2
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Default Check timing

The timing I think is the cylinder and the barrel in line with one another. That's what i was told,to check before buying a used gun.

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Old 10-08-2010, 02:42 PM   #3
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Lock-up, timing, alignment, barrel/cylinder gap and endshake all need to be checked before buying a used S&W or any used revolver.

Lock-up----Cylinder should not turn or have any excessive play when the bolt engages the cylinder cutouts.

Alignment----Checked with a range rod down the barrel, range rod should slide into the cylinder without touching the mouth of the cyilinder on either side. If it does, then the cylinder is out of alignment and needs work.

Timing----The cylinder should reach full lock-up just prior to full cock on single action and just prior to hammer drop on double action. This test should be performed with a slight amount of resistance applied to the cylinder.

Barrel/Cylinder gap----The distance between the cylinder and barrel. Should be a maximum of .008" and preferably .006" or under.

Cylinder endshake----The forward and aft movement of the cylinder. Should very little or no movement at all.

You should also check full cock engagement. Pull hammer back to full cock then try to push it off full cock with your thumb. If it remains at full cock, you are fine. If it pushes off, pass on the gun, it will probably need both a hammer and trigger replaced.


If you have a problem in any of these areas when checking a used revolver, pass on it or be prepaired to have it repaired

Hope this helps,
Jim..........

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Old 10-08-2010, 03:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterPsmith View Post
Barrel/Cylinder gap----The distance between the cylinder and barrel. Should be a maximum of .008" and preferably .006" or under.
Jim,
Is that with an empty cylinder? Or do you load the chambers with cases first?

Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2010, 05:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Is that with an empty cylinder? Or do you load the chambers with cases first?
It doesn't make any difference. You don't need any cases in the cylinder chambers when checking out a revolver. Much less do you need live rounds. Here's a good write-up on how to check out a used revolver: Revolver checkout: how to tell if a particular specimen is any good - TheFiringLine Forums
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Old 10-08-2010, 07:13 PM   #6
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Here is a link to a video I found on the subject. The beginning is kind of weird, but lots of good info.

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Old 10-08-2010, 10:02 PM   #7
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I saw that video before and it has good info. JIM (masterPsmith) I'm taking you with me next time I buy a gun, just so you know!!! great reply.

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Old 10-08-2010, 10:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterPsmith View Post
Lock-up, timing, alignment, barrel/cylinder gap and endshake all need to be checked before buying a used S&W or any used revolver.

Lock-up----Cylinder should not turn or have any excessive play when the bolt engages the cylinder cutouts.

Alignment----Checked with a range rod down the barrel, range rod should slide into the cylinder without touching the mouth of the cyilinder on either side. If it does, then the cylinder is out of alignment and needs work.

Timing----The cylinder should reach full lock-up just prior to full cock on single action and just prior to hammer drop on double action. This test should be performed with a slight amount of resistance applied to the cylinder.

Barrel/Cylinder gap----The distance between the cylinder and barrel. Should be a maximum of .008" and preferably .006" or under.

Cylinder endshake----The forward and aft movement of the cylinder. Should very little or no movement at all.

You should also check full cock engagement. Pull hammer back to full cock then try to push it off full cock with your thumb. If it remains at full cock, you are fine. If it pushes off, pass on the gun, it will probably need both a hammer and trigger replaced.


If you have a problem in any of these areas when checking a used revolver, pass on it or be prepaired to have it repaired

Hope this helps,
Jim..........
Excellent info. Thank you.

Now a question:
Smith 65, put in full lock up. Try to rotate cylinder to left(direction of cylinder rotation) will not budge. Try to rotate to the right(opposite of cylinder rotation) it does move a little tiny bit and then will move back to where it stopped at full lock up. So It's only moving in one direction right?
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jca1 View Post
Smith 65, put in full lock up. Try to rotate cylinder to left(direction of cylinder rotation) will not budge. Try to rotate to the right(opposite of cylinder rotation) it does move a little tiny bit and then will move back to where it stopped at full lock up. So It's only moving in one direction right?
Yes, that sounds like it's just fine.
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:04 PM   #10
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Thanks GNLaFrance

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