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Old 03-28-2009, 06:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Courtesy of Wikipedia
In 1957, Smith and Wesson began a convention of using numeric designations to distinguish their various models of handguns. The M&P was renamed the Model 10.
If it says Mod-10 on it, it's post '57

Quote:
Originally Posted by Courtesy of Wikipedia
Beginning with the Model 10-5 series in the late 1960s, the tapered barrel and its trademark 'half moon' front sight (as shown in the illustrations on this page) were replaced by a straight bull barrel and a sloped milled ramp front sight.
s-w-model-10-lend-lease-m-p.jpg
Comparing the site on the above picture (of a WWII M&P) with the site on your gun, I'd say yours is at least as new as the late 1960's when they started the Mod 10-5.
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:33 PM   #12
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thanx for the reply, i was wondering if someone was going to get back to me since i put up the pics.so can i just go to smith & wesson.com to do the serial number search?

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Old 03-28-2009, 08:58 PM   #13
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Default 38 Special revolver, ONLY!

This is a standard S&W "38 special" model 10 Police/Military , standard "K" frame revolver. This is NOT a shorter case, larger diameter casing and less effective S&W 38 caliber!!!
I wish people selling these guns would give the buyers some education, On what they really have instead of just taking their money and laughing or hoping they can get out of the building quick enough they wo'nt find them. I'm sorry but my inter-self will not let me do that to anyone????

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Old 03-29-2009, 12:21 AM   #14
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According to the " STANDARD CATALOG OF SMITH & WESSON" your revolver was manufactured in 1960. Hope this helps and if you have any other questions just ask.

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Old 03-29-2009, 03:28 AM   #15
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thanx again ,it does help.ive been told it was a 38special but that eirlier post made me alittle nervous.it locks the cyl./timing seems ok.i paid $60.00 plus the $25.00 transfer fee.its mostly for keeping unwanted animals/peaple out of my tent when i'm camping,any bullet suggestions?i've heard practice with regular 38 specials but i could keep it loaded with +p.

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Old 03-29-2009, 04:25 AM   #16
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Woolu,
Already expressed but to confirm it is a 38 special model 10 mfg in 1960. The $85 you spent is a great price, it's worth $200+ depending on bore condition and if it's a lower rev level (model 10-1 is worth more than a 10-17 ect). S&W will do an apprasial/history if you want but I think they chrage $45 for it. Overal it's a good pistol and fine for your intended use. Enjoy and let us know if you have further questions.

As for ammo I would use standard full metal jacket (FMJ) rounds staggered with jacketed hallow point (JHP) rounds. That way your covered no matter the threat. Also take some time and go shoot the pistol so you are comfrontable with how to operate it and how it fires. Enjoy

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Old 03-29-2009, 01:50 PM   #17
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Remember the "official" name of the .38 Special cartridge is .38 Smith & Wesson Special. Not to be confused with the .38 Smith & Wesson.

A 1960 S&W M-10 is not "rated" for +P ammo. This does not mean it will blow up if +P's are fired through it. A steady diet of +P's will cause some problems. End shake cylinder is the most common problem you will eventually see. Even this is easily correctable.

If it was mine and I was in your situation, I would shoot standard pressure Specials and carry +P's. 125gr Gold Dot HP +P's would be my ammo of choice. FMJ's in revolvers are very anemic and do not penetrate as well as you mich expect. If you wanted a bullet for deep penetration go with a heavy (158gr or heavier) hard cast SWC or Wide Flat Nose in +P range.

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Old 03-29-2009, 01:54 PM   #18
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On the topic of end shake cylinder, you can check yours for this condition by holding the unloaded revolver iin one hand and grasping the cylnder with the other hand. Try to move the cylinder back and forth. There should be the smallest, barely perceptable amount of movement. Any more and you are starting to have a "problem". You can also hold the gun up to the light and see how much gap there is between the cylinder and the barrel. You should see a sliver of light about the thickness of a piece of paper. No gap generally means you have excesive endshake.

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Old 03-30-2009, 12:17 AM   #19
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thanx for the info robocop.I'll check it out.

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Old 04-15-2009, 04:26 PM   #20
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