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-   -   S&W DA triggers (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f16/s-w-da-triggers-18670/)

NGIB 09-29-2009 10:53 PM

S&W DA triggers
 
I've had a lot of S&W revolvers over the years and I'm to cheap to send them out for professional action jobs. A quick way to improve the DA trigger pull is to lighten the trigger rebound spring and polish up the trigger rebound bar. The stock springs can generally be reduced 4-5# from the stock weight with no reliability issues. Too light and the trigger will develop reset issues. The "bar" that the rebound spring rides in is generally a good candidate for some polishing to reduce friction. I have seen some very well finished and I have seen some very rough.

To swap the spring and polish the bar is a very quick job - say 20 minutes or so, and can really show good results for a small investment in time and money. Note that I never replace the mainsprings with lighter versions as I do not want to end up with light strike issues. Many folks loosen the strain screw on the leaf-springs S&W's to accomplish this and it can lead to problems.

While you have the sideplate off, of course clean and lube everything. No, this will not give you the butter smooth trigger you'll get from a profesional action job - but this only costs a few bucks and takes a few minutes...

CA357 09-30-2009 02:51 AM

The trigger on my Model 37 is still stiff as a board. :(

NGIB 09-30-2009 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA357 (Post 167822)
The trigger on my Model 37 is still stiff as a board. :(

J-frame Smith's are tough to make really good. The coiled mainspring will never be as smooth as the leaf spring used in the larger guns. They really benefit from a reduced power rebound spring and some polishing. The "bar" that the mainspring rides on can also be quite rough and some polish here helps as well.

Anywhere you can reduce needless friction is a good thing. My 37 isn't to bad and I've taken these steps with it...

CA357 09-30-2009 04:02 PM

I disassembled it for Duracoating and smoothed the innards as much as I was comfortable with. It doesn't get shot much, so I can live with it.

Clem 10-04-2009 09:31 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I have to confess that I am one of those guys who is not only too cheap to send out a gun for work, but actually enjoys doing his own work.

When I get a new S&W revolver, I take it home and strip it down completely. I then start lightly smoothing the internals like the rebound slide, but also the sides and double action sear contact of the trigger, the double action sear of the hammer, and the anywhere else it looks like it could help. I also take a close look at the barrel forcing cone. I take .357s and recut the cone with a 5 degree cutter. I also check the tightness of the lockup. I then shoot it and look closely at the distribution of the fouling in the forcing cone. Typically, this can be off a little. I then play with widths of the cylinder locking bolt and hand to bring the chambers into alignment.

I also put in a longer firing pin and typically slightly lighter springs. Canít do much with rimfire mainsprings, like a 617 if you want to maintain uniform ignition with all .22 ammo, but the centerfire guns can usually do just fine with a slightly lighter spring. I never go too light. I actually prefer a double action trigger that is slightly heavy, as long as it is smooth.

All in good fun.

The results have been very satisfactory. My favorite .357 is my 627PC, but my new 627Pro is looking like it will give it a run for itís money. For those who think the .357 is a little on the wimpy side, how would you like to try the double action trigger of my .500 mag John Ross Special?


Photo: 5" 627-5 PC and 5" 617-5

masterPsmith 10-04-2009 03:16 PM

In doing your own action work on S&W revolvers, just a word of advise, along with polishing the rebound slide surfaces, only polish the double action bearing surfaces on the hammer and trigger. Stay away from the single action sear surfaces. I have had way to many S&Ws come into my shop in years past that needed hammer and trigger replacements because someone over stoned or polished the single action sear notches and did not know what they were doing. There are probably countless S&W revolvers out there today that you can pull the hammer to full cock and push it off with your thumb. This is a very dangerous condition. Also when you remove the side plate, NEVER try to pry it out. Remove the screws and tap on the frame with a plastic or rawhide mallet to remove it.

Be carefull working on your S&W innards................


Jim................

NGIB 10-04-2009 05:45 PM

Glad you could weigh in on this Jim. My goal was to show that you can improve the DA trigger quickly and cheaply. I've never had the confidence in my abilities to mess with the sear surfaces...

Clem 10-04-2009 08:27 PM

I stay away from the single action sear surfaces. They almost never need any work anyway.


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