removing light rust
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removing light rust


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Old 04-23-2014, 12:58 AM   #1
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Default removing light rust

on my service six i have light specks of rust on the gun, i can't afford a hot blue and i don't do cold blue well and wouldn't want to cold blue as it don't last for me. the blueing is good on the gun, just the specks of rust are on it but they are stuborn. they aren't all over it in patches just tiny pin head size specks on the frame and cylinder here and there. i have fritz metal polish and wonder about it. now i have one more question, if i keep it cleaned and oiled will it get worse? it will be my woods gun so as long as it wouldn't get worse i'm fine with it. but if it would i want to stop it if i can. thanks for any help
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:04 AM   #2
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on my service six i have light specks of rust on the gun, i can't afford a hot blue and i don't do cold blue well and wouldn't want to cold blue as it don't last for me. the blueing is good on the gun, just the specks of rust are on it but they are stuborn. they aren't all over it in patches just tiny pin head size specks on the frame and cylinder here and there. i have fritz metal polish and wonder about it. now i have one more question, if i keep it cleaned and oiled will it get worse? it will be my woods gun so as long as it wouldn't get worse i'm fine with it. but if it would i want to stop it if i can. thanks for any help
There are several here who have good ideas and methods on cleaning up the type of rust you're talking about. I used to take by lightly rusted guns and/or parts to our lgs and there was a guy there who could do magic on it. He used 4 ought steel wool and a good gun oil (on the parts and on the wool) and very lightly rubbed the rust till it was gone. I watched him do it on several occasions and was as amazed each time as I was the first.
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Last edited by therukh; 04-23-2014 at 01:27 AM. Reason: extra extraneous word
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:19 AM   #3
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i am a bit fan of using Kano Kroil with a course cloth or very, very fine steel wool for removing rust from guns. i would use the course cloth before using the steel wool though. IMO, i don't think the Flitz would be good to use on a blued gun.
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:28 AM   #4
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Bluing is controlled rusting (black iron oxide instead of red). If it will take off rust, it CAN take off bluing.

Key words- easy does it.

Flitz is an abrasive- albeit a mild one. You can remove bluing.

There are dozens of ways- I would start with light oil (Kroil if you have it, any light oil if you don't) clean coarse cloth, wet gun, wet cloth, rub til arm falls off, switching to clean spots on the cloth.

Stubborn rust- grocery store, housewares. A COPPER Chore-boy pot scrubber. Not the cheap copper plated steel, you tightwad!

Again, wet gun, wet pad, rub lightly. Gun will turn coppery. That's OK- your next step is coarse cloth, oil, coppery color comes off.

Wipe it down with a light coat of oil- how often depends on where you are. Arizona, semi annual, New Orleans, daily.

You CAN use Bronze wool, or 0000 steel wool with oil, but that can be aggressive to some finishes.
















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Old 04-24-2014, 11:35 PM   #5
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ok, i have used 0000 wool and rem oil is what i had, with a little flitz too. there still looks like frecks on the gun but when i run my finger over them its smooth. to explain the best i can is, if i took the cylinder or top strap in my hand now and closed my eyes i can't feel the rust or where it is or was, with a light i can see the small frecks there but they are smooth. do i need to do more? also i have been told a pencil eraser will work, will it? have i got it done or do i continue?with it smooth now i really don't know. it wasn't bad to begin with as it was barely felt but i call it freckling. thanks
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:41 PM   #6
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ok, i have used 0000 wool and rem oil is what i had, with a little flitz too. there still looks like frecks on the gun but when i run my finger over them its smooth. to explain the best i can is, if i took the cylinder or top strap in my hand now and closed my eyes i can't feel the rust or where it is or was, with a light i can see the small frecks there but they are smooth. do i need to do more? also i have been told a pencil eraser will work, will it? have i got it done or do i continue?with it smooth now i really don't know. it wasn't bad to begin with as it was barely felt but i call it freckling. thanks
more that likely if you can't feel it anymore with your fingers, then you have probably got it about as good as it's going to get unless you do a complete stripping and polishing, and then reblueing.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:49 AM   #7
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Pencil erasers have an abrasive in the rubber. It WILL take bluing off your gun. We used to use them to clean electrical contacts.


I'd let it be.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:51 AM   #8
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Pencil erasers have an abrasive in the rubber. It WILL take bluing off your gun. We used to use them to clean electrical contacts.


I'd let it be.
we used pencil erasers to clean the contacts on slot car tracks. courtesy of our father who was an electrician.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:26 AM   #9
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on my service six i have light specks of rust on the gun, i can't afford a hot blue and i don't do cold blue well and wouldn't want to cold blue as it don't last for me. the blueing is good on the gun, just the specks of rust are on it but they are stuborn. they aren't all over it in patches just tiny pin head size specks on the frame and cylinder here and there. i have fritz metal polish and wonder about it. now i have one more question, if i keep it cleaned and oiled will it get worse? it will be my woods gun so as long as it wouldn't get worse i'm fine with it. but if it would i want to stop it if i can. thanks for any help
I've used small pieces of nylon wool and a brass tip, just enough to prep for the Bluing Pen.

Anything that removes rust can and will remove a microscopic amount of bluing around the defect. But chances are it will happen anyway as rust expands. Not getting into a theological dispute, I just hate the sight of it and prefer a minuscule reblued spot to a speck of rust.

Touch-up bluing is controlled oxidation, basically black rust. It is a commitment, because the gun needs to be inspected periodically, and cold bluing reapplied as necessary (how often, depends on the finish and on the climate conditions, between several months and infinity.) But you would just as well check on the rust spots, if you care about your gun's looks.

My Browning A5 needs a lot less attention since I filled the safe with silica containers.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:20 AM   #10
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cold bluing has nothing to do with oxidation. It's electroless plating of copper sulphate, usually.
REAL bluing is oxidation.
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