New 686plus or old 66-4? - Page 2
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:52 PM   #11
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Thanks guys. :-)

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Old 11-25-2012, 07:17 PM   #12
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Sweet smith .... congrats!!

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:13 AM   #13
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Glad you got the 66! Have you had a chance to shoot it yet? This 66 here was the first pistol I ever owned, and as such has the highest sentimental value of any firearm I have ever had. Enjoy yours...

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocop10mm View Post
The 66. The new S&W's use too many MIM (Metal Injection Molded) parts. That means cast metal. The older ones used forged parts. I just do not trust the MIM stuff. Plus the 686 probably has the annoying "Lock" above te cylinder release.
It does...
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreAltitude
Glad you got the 66! Have you had a chance to shoot it yet? This 66 here was the first pistol I ever owned, and as such has the highest sentimental value of any firearm I have ever had. Enjoy yours...
Thanks! I haven't got to shoot it yet. Hopefully before too long I'll be able to get her out and put some lead downrange.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:05 PM   #16
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You made a good choice, the 66-4 is the last of what I consider the good ones. I just picked up a 686-4 and for shooting Magnum loads the slightly larger L frame is more durable than the K. But most people shoot 38 Specials out of their 66s anyway and you have a good one.

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Old 12-01-2012, 04:44 PM   #17
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I've got that same Model 66, although mine is marked "66-2". I always thought the "-2" indicated the 2 1/2" barrel, and the "-4" would indicate the revolver left the factory with a 4" barrel. Can an expert straighten me out here?

It is freakishly accurate for a 2 1/2" barreled revolver. It's a bit of an adventure to shoot with full-boat .357 ammo. Lots of muzzle blast and flash. I load 148 grain hollow base wadcutters over 3.1 grains of Winchester 231 and shoot it all day. Great trigger, great sight picture, and comfortable as anything.

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Old 12-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #18
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I've got that same Model 66, although mine is marked "66-2". I always thought the "-2" indicated the 2 1/2" barrel, and the "-4" would indicate the revolver left the factory with a 4" barrel. Can an expert straighten me out here?

It is freakishly accurate for a 2 1/2" barreled revolver. It's a bit of an adventure to shoot with full-boat .357 ammo. Lots of muzzle blast and flash. I load 148 grain hollow base wadcutters over 3.1 grains of Winchester 231 and shoot it all day. Great trigger, great sight picture, and comfortable as anything.
The -2 is the production run- -2 -3 -4 ect
BTW- the 2nd like yours WAS a great run
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khromo
I've got that same Model 66, although mine is marked "66-2". I always thought the "-2" indicated the 2 1/2" barrel, and the "-4" would indicate the revolver left the factory with a 4" barrel. Can an expert straighten me out here?

It is freakishly accurate for a 2 1/2" barreled revolver. It's a bit of an adventure to shoot with full-boat .357 ammo. Lots of muzzle blast and flash. I load 148 grain hollow base wadcutters over 3.1 grains of Winchester 231 and shoot it all day. Great trigger, great sight picture, and comfortable as anything.
The number after the dash indicates which revision it was. For example the first model would be a 66. When they made the first change to the model 66, no matter how small of a change it was, they put a dash after the model number. So the first revision would be a -1, the second revision would be a -2 and so on. Barrel length had nothing to do with the dash.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:43 PM   #20
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The dash numbers represent engineering changes to the model.

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