Need Info & Help: Harrington & Richardson Top Break Revolver??
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Need Info & Help: Harrington & Richardson Top Break Revolver??


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Old 01-24-2012, 12:53 PM   #1
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Default Need Info & Help: Harrington & Richardson Top Break Revolver??

I need help with a revolver just given to me. I know its a Harrington & Richardson Top Break Nickel plated 6 shot with copper or brass trigger and hammer. The top of the barrel (rib) is stamped as follows:

Harrington & Richardson Arms Company, Worcester Mass. U.S.A.
PAT. Oct.4,'87,May14&Aug.6'89,April2'95,April7,1896.

On the butt of the gun is stamped: G 5 8 9 6 9

On cylinder where the bullet are loaded is stamped 969

There are no other markings or stamped items on the revolver.

If anyone could help me with this revolver such as: Year of manufactured, what the caliber, what bullets can be fired from this revolver, where an exposed view and/or schematic can be obtained, and so on. I would greatly appreciated the information.

Thank You for YOUR time and assistance with the above H&R revolver.

Respectfully,

Bayou Bullet


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Old 01-24-2012, 12:59 PM   #2
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I'm in the same boat. I can find nothing on my H&R 9 shot 22. Luckily my dad did know it was a 22.

Sent from a Droid...but not the Droid you are looking for. Move along.


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Old 01-24-2012, 01:23 PM   #3
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Bayou- first, welcome to the forum. When you get a minute, drop by the intro thread, and say howdy.

Second- we DO need pictures. Send me a Private Message, and I can talk you thru the process. We need pic close, and pic with action open showing the frame where latch goes.

3rd, I would have to make a guess here- you probably have an H&R Old Style Small Frame Automatic. Automatic means when you break the revolver, it ejects the empties automatically.

Made later than the patent dates obviously- these started right at the turn of the century. The two most common calibers were .32 S&W, and .38 S&W. I would not suggest firing ANYTHING until a smith has checked it for timing. The early .38 S&W guns were meant for black powder rounds, and should not be fired with modern smokeless ammo.

Have never seen one with a brass or copper trigger/hammer. Number on butt is serial number, cylinder has short version as an assembly number, keeping fitted parts together in factory.

You did not ask, but values for these are typically very modest unless the gun is like new. They were inexpensive guns owned by merchants, mechanics, and other working stiffs.

Some of our other members may be along with additional info.
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:58 PM   #4
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c3shooter, Bayou Bullet: I want tell you how much I appreciate your quick response. I have some more info and/or questions. The caliber is 32. So first question is what ammo can I use in the revolver? It is a small frame revolver and the timing is off a little. I have a friend who is g-smith and he will check the revolver out, Next the trigger and hammer are brass. Knowing the research I have done on my own, I am puzzled as to why? and Finally, Here how to hunt polar bear, Yes Polar Bear!! Go to Alaska and you will cut a hole in the ice. Next you will place small green peas all around the hole you just cut. Next you wait and when that polar bear comes to take a pea, you kick him in the ice hole. Works every time.

Again, Thank You for your time and assistance.

Respectfully,

Bayou Bullet

PS: Two items 1) Virginia!! What A Great State!! and Us, Cajuns, May sum times hunt a little odd than other human beings. Me I got neaux fearrs.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:30 PM   #5
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Caliber is .32 S&W. Trigger and hammer can not be brass. Check with a magnet. If magnet sticks it is steel. Could be brass plated. Those two pieces must be very hard so soft metal (like brass)can not be used. Those on this forum can not stress enough the caution in shooting these guns that the media called " saturday night specials". Please just look at it and don't shoot it.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:58 PM   #6
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SOMETIMES. someone would cock one of those while it was open- and try to close it while cocked. When cocked, the hand (bit that makes cylinder turn) is sticking out. Close it, and edge of cylinder whacks the tip of the hand, blunting it. Makes it " Un peu plus courte" Being a little shorter, the hand does not push the cylinder as far, and timing goes bad. Ask your smith to check tip of hand, and the star on back of cylinder that the hand pushes.

Regular .32 S&W ammo- round nosed lead. No JHP, no silvertip, just regular .32. NO .32 AUTO !!!!


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