GP-100 vs M60 - Page 4
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:03 PM   #31
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You made a great choice in the 686.

I like Ruger revolvers OK, but nothing beats an S&W.

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Old 02-19-2011, 01:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleak23 View Post
Thanks guys! I appreciate it.

I'm already looking at Hogue grips for it. Don't know if it's square or round butt. I think it's round. Confusing data. Does anyone know?

Reading stuff like this from the S&W forum...



And...
Take your grips off and compare:


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Old 02-19-2011, 03:32 AM   #33
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[QUOTE=bleak23;447341]Thanks guys! I appreciate it.

I'm already looking at Hogue grips for it. Don't know if it's square or round butt. I think it's round. Confusing data. Does anyone know? /QUOTE]

Doesn't matter use the one you like best both will work. Forget the Hogue get the Pachmayr Decelerator Grips you'll love'm

Amazon.com: Pachmayr Gripper Dec w/FG S&W N Frm Rnd Bt Pistol Grip 05148: Sports & Outdoors

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Old 02-19-2011, 03:37 AM   #34
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The Smith & Wesson bible says 686 has a square but, that would be the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 3rd edition

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Old 02-19-2011, 09:51 AM   #35
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The newer 686's are round butt. Mine came from the factory with Hogue grips. I had the Pachmayr's for a while but went back to the Hogues as they were just more comfortable to me.

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Old 02-19-2011, 09:56 AM   #36
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There's been a lot of guns mentioned here, and this may not sit well with some folks here, but here goes, Taurus, keep away from them if you are thinking of giving it a lot of use, the metal is soft, especially the internals, case hardening is poor.
That has to be one of the most ridiculous statements I have read on the internet. I guess I got lucky with the 10 Taurus revolvers that I own. The soft metal hasn't worn away yet.
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:31 AM   #37
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Finally got it (S&W 686+) today. Feels good in hand. Going to the range on Monday.

I got two boxes of .38's and one of .357. Guess I'll shoot the 38's first.

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Old 04-17-2011, 03:58 PM   #38
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Finally got it (S&W 686+) today. Feels good in hand. Going to the range on Monday.

I got two boxes of .38's and one of .357. Guess I'll shoot the 38's first.
Right on. Get it sighted in w/ the .38s (more economical). If that is your gun with the scope on it, take it off. Then just start shooting.

Pay close attention to your fundamental mechanics (I have no idea what your experience is, just generalizing)

-Stance (isosceles, weaver, kneeling)
-Aiming (never lose focus on your front post, expand your POA area)
-grip (good solid, high hand)
-finger placement (there are tests to narrow down your perfect spot, but it is usually just aft of the furthest joint on index finger, the most sensitive spot to touch)
-trigger control (fluid, circular motion, w/o disturbing the alignment of handgun.)

As trigger control is the most important mechanical skill to achieve excellence in shooting the pistol (I still have a looooong way to go. . . ) dry-fire periodically during each and every session, focusing on the sight alignment, to ensure no development of bad habits.

The best investment you can make is a set of dummy rounds for your handgun. Practice at home, drawing, aiming and dry-firing. It is just as valuable or MORE valuable than actual range time.

10 Taurus revolvers??? I won't start an argument, but through my experience, I have never desired any six-gun that was made by any other than Smith or Ruger. Everyone is different and entitled to their own opinion. If you love Taurus, then that is fine by me.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:06 PM   #39
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Aiming (never lose focus on your front post, expand your POA area)

[...]

As trigger control is the most important mechanical skill to achieve excellence in shooting the pistol (I still have a looooong way to go. . . ) dry-fire periodically during each and every session, focusing on the sight alignment, to ensure no development of bad habits.
Quoted for Truth!

IMHO, Trigger control is more important than sight alignment. You can have a perfect sight picture and then pull the gun to the left/right during your trigger stroke. Also, during dry-fire practice, try to avoid staging your trigger. With many wheelies you can pull the trigger in DA right to the point at which the hammer is about to fall and stop and for a final sight alignment. The problem with this is that it is poor training for self-defense purposes.

The best way is to practice with steady constant pressure through the entire trigger stroke making the weapon's firing a surprise during the pull of the trigger. Also, to practice shooting faster learn the rhythm of the front sight rising and falling during recoil and only fire when the sight falls back to the proper alignment. As diggsbakes said, the only thing that should be in perfect focus should be the front sight, everything should be a blur (the target, gun, everything). It may be slow at first but with practice you will increase in speed.

I see people at the range all the time firing away as fast as the can with two good hits on the target and a lot of wasted ammo.

Good luck and congrats on great purchase!
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:08 PM   #40
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With many wheelies you can pull the trigger in DA right to the point at which the hammer is about to fall and stop and for a final sight alignment. The problem with this is that it is poor training for self-defense purposes.

The best way is to practice with steady constant pressure through the entire trigger stroke making the weapon's firing a surprise during the pull of the trigger. Also, to practice shooting faster learn the rhythm of the front sight rising and falling during recoil and only fire when the sight falls back to the proper alignment.

I see people at the range all the time firing away as fast as the can with two good hits on the target and a lot of wasted ammo.
Indeed, the trigger control also has many good checks. Some you can do yourself, some you need a partner.

1.) Load a cylinder with 2 (or so) empty chambers. Also load a speed-loader the same way. Dummy rounds are staggered. Spin the wheel and look the other way when closing.

2.) Start shooting. Pay attention to your front post, especially when you hit an empty chamber. If you have a buddy with you he/she can tell you how your reaction looked, but you can tell ho0w your reaction felt

3.) Reload with staggered speed-loader. Repeat.

It gives you a good idea of your control and flinch.

A variation is to mix the live rounds up. Use half .38s, half .357s

Like mesinge pointed out. . . You will learn to get into rhythm with the revolver and its particular muzzle rise. Some revolvers are easier to catch on to than others. My Model 66 rolls, as I call it, so smoothly I can hardly tell you in words. My SP101 on the other hand does not. . . I'm doing some work to it, so hopefully it will soon.

Revolvers are more difficult to master than other pistols, but there are some advantages over auto-pistols that are desired by many folks. Mainly the power of the cartridges that revolvers are commonly chambered for are useful to those of us that spend time in bear country or simply want that power/versatility at our fingertips in time of crisis. Different strokes. . .
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