Recoil spring resistance--how much and why? - Page 3
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Paperpuncher View Post
You haven't pulled back on a slide with some recoil spring resistance until you've pulled on a Kahr CM9.

That slide is brutal....period
You're right about that! I have a MK9 and a PM9 and their springs are stout.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:25 AM   #22
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I have a SA1911A1 Mil-Spec; I have no idea the poundage of the recoil spring nor do I know the poundage of the hammer spring but I do know this. I am jealous of scenes I see on TV shooting shows where the shooter racks the slide using only his thumb and index finger...from the underside on top of that. There is no way on God's green earth you are going to do that with mine. I find it cumbersome at best using the "slingshot" pull. I know the uncocked hammer has a huge effect on cocking; when the hammer is cocked, the slide is fairly easy to cycle, when the hammer is up, it's hard. I've been thinking of trying out a lighter hammer spring and recoil spring myself; I have never had cycling problems when firing; I have had some FTF's due to bad mags(replaced them and all is well again) so I don't think it will be an issue and if it screws things up, I'll change it back. Worth a look-see anyhow.

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Old 04-30-2012, 11:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boutaswell
I have a SA1911A1 Mil-Spec; I have no idea the poundage of the recoil spring nor do I know the poundage of the hammer spring but I do know this. I am jealous of scenes I see on TV shooting shows where the shooter racks the slide using only his thumb and index finger...from the underside on top of that. There is no way on God's green earth you are going to do that with mine. I find it cumbersome at best using the "slingshot" pull. I know the uncocked hammer has a huge effect on cocking; when the hammer is cocked, the slide is fairly easy to cycle, when the hammer is up, it's hard. I've been thinking of trying out a lighter hammer spring and recoil spring myself; I have never had cycling problems when firing; I have had some FTF's due to bad mags(replaced them and all is well again) so I don't think it will be an issue and if it screws things up, I'll change it back. Worth a look-see anyhow.
Just an FYI...
If you have one of the SA's with the ILS locking mechanism built into your mainspring housing, then you can certainly change the mainspring out to a lighter one. SA uses a very heavy 23# spring in this mechanism. You can replace that and go as light as a 19# or even a 17# mainspring with no ill effects ( may even slightly lighten up your trigger pull).
Your recoil spring is another story. Unless you are shooting light loads (ie...reloads) I would not go any lighter than the factory recommended spring poundage here. I think SA uses a 16# spring for standard Gov't sized slides. If you go lighter than that with standard factory ammo, you could cause excessive breach face wear and even damage to your barrel hood in some cases.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bartwatkins View Post
Just an FYI...
You can replace that and go as light as a 19# or even a 17# mainspring with no ill effects ( may even slightly lighten up your trigger pull).
Your recoil spring is another story.
Thanks Bart,

I don't have ILS on my SA(it's about 20 years old); it hasn't had heavy use. As a matter of fact I've really only started using it the last couple of years. I've pretty much already rethought the replacement of the recoil spring. I shoot only 230g ball so keeping the oem strength spring is probably best. But I sure would like to drop a few pounds on the hammer spring. I think that is probably where a lot of my resistance is coming from; maybe drop it down to 18# or so. I just put in a Wilson sear and sear spring. After stoning the trigger track and the sear swap, I really like my trigger where it is, not sure I would be comfortable with it any lighter but I guess I can play with the trigger break by manipulating the sear spring and still lighten the hammer spring.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boutaswell View Post
Thanks Bart,

I don't have ILS on my SA(it's about 20 years old); it hasn't had heavy use. As a matter of fact I've really only started using it the last couple of years. I've pretty much already rethought the replacement of the recoil spring. I shoot only 230g ball so keeping the oem strength spring is probably best. But I sure would like to drop a few pounds on the hammer spring. I think that is probably where a lot of my resistance is coming from; maybe drop it down to 18# or so. I just put in a Wilson sear and sear spring. After stoning the trigger track and the sear swap, I really like my trigger where it is, not sure I would be comfortable with it any lighter but I guess I can play with the trigger break by manipulating the sear spring and still lighten the hammer spring.
Look at Wolff Gunsprings. I have an SA Loaded and I bought a Smith & Alexander MSH/Magwell combo (one piece) to replace the ILS system magwell that came stock in it. That is what I put in mine (18# Wolff spring).
Actually, I really only noticed a "smoother" trigger pull/break on mine. When I said "slightly" in my earlier post - the difference in actual trigger pull poundage was imperceptable.
Good luck - all that stuff is fun to tinker with.
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Old 09-05-2012, 01:07 AM   #26
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There is a fellow that goes by 1911 tuner. He frequents the high horse, eeerrrmmmm, I mean high road. He knows a good deal about recoil springs. He knows when and why you should change a recoil spring.

If he says there is something up with your recoil springs I would have it verified by a licensed gunsmith.

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Old 09-06-2012, 03:09 PM   #27
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I haven't seen this explanation so here you go. The difference in slide resistance is different because they serve two very different purposes. The Sig Sauer and XDm rely on the spring to stop the action of the recoil and return the slide forward that is the reason for the higher tension spring.
1911 style guns only slow the action enough for the frame itself to absorb the impact of the slide as it cycles. The spring then only has to load the next round. This is the reason for the felt difference when cycling the slide.
I only know this because me and a buddy were trying to figure out why my (at the time) Sig P220 was so much stiffer than his 1911.
On a side note as the spring wears on a 1911 the recoil can actually do slight damage to the frame as it no longer slows the slide enough to keep the damage from happening. When you start having feed problems with a 1911 and the mags are ok then this is the second most likely culprit as we found out.
Hope this helps!

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Old 03-26-2013, 05:25 AM   #28
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Wolff Springs has documented recoil springs very well so you are not guessing. MY Kel Tec P-3AT runs much better with a 13 lb recoil spring. The P-3AT comes with an 11 lb spring. I use the wolff magazine springs in everything but Mec-Gar magazines. Mec-Gar magazines have an adequate spring that does not need upgrading.

Wolff makes calibration packs for most semi automatic pistols. If you have to have perfection the calibration spring kits are pretty cool. Wolff also sells calibration packs for revolvers. They also sell spring stock so you can make a spring for guns that parts are discontinued.

Here is an interesting article on magazine springs: http://www.ballistics101.com/mag_spring_experiment.php

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Old 07-25-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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If I am going to lug around 10 lbs of gun and ammo, it's certainly not going to be any silly pistol. :-) It's going to be a folding stocked autoloading rifle, witha short barrel, sound suppressor, optic sight, sweet trigger pull, laser designator. You know, something that's WORTH a hoot in a fight, day or night.

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