First field strip/disassembly and cleaning...
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:35 AM   #1
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Default First field strip/disassembly and cleaning...

of my Ruger LC9 and my fathers Winchester 30-30. The Ruger was easy as all get out, only took seconds including the clip. The Winchester, on the other hand, with all its screws and removable wooden parts held on by rusted up metal bracets took forever. And cleaning it was pure hell because of that.

Bought one of those cheapo Hoppes cleaning kits with a rod, solvent and lube. Didn't even end up using the stupid rod. Pops taught me an easier way without having to bang metal around inside the barrel, rather using a leather shoestring, flattened at the end and slit a bit to hold a cloth patch. Then simply run the string through the part desired to clean, wet the patch and pull through. Repeat a few times, replace patch with dry one and continue until fully dry and voila. Then a dab of lube worked in and it's reassembly time. Liked it much more than ramming some rod back and forth, just seemed so much more natural, like one would've done hundreds of years ago or when out in nature without the "tools".

Anyway, I was worried that I was going to hate the cleaning proccess and fall out of my new love for firearms quickly. Instead, I enjoyed the cleanup almost as much as the shooting. And after finding how easy it was to pull the trigger on such a range of weaponry, I'm only sinking deeper. Lookin forward to the purchase of two more handguns and a rifle.

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Old 11-18-2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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Anybody use Tri-Lube? It says guns, lists all the standard actionable pieces its good for. Anyway, I've used it on my archery equipment for a while now, cams, and just noticed the listings on the side of the bottle, including "guns". Well, I used it today on the 3030 and my LC9. Just sayin', you get a lot of lube for the price. The only problem is the spray can be a little much, but a little bit goes a long way. Put the barrel in the slide along with the recoil spring and gave it a brief once over, then in the barrel, then placed alide together with grip and worked the action back and forth a few times and voila - everything was nice and shiny but not oozing. I'm quite content with it.

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Old 11-18-2011, 11:35 PM   #3
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http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f102/gun-cleaning-input-48564/

Have you checked out this thread yet? Lots of great info from lots of smart people...
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:41 PM   #4
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Make sure to wipe out the barrel & chamber before you shoot it the next time.

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Old 11-18-2011, 11:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA357
Make sure to wipe out the barrel & chamber before you shoot it the next time.
You mean with a dry patch, after having lubed, I assume?
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:12 AM   #6
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Yup, with a dry patch.

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Old 11-19-2011, 02:40 PM   #7
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I have not used a regular patch holder for years. I use a good one-piece cleaning rod and brass jags designed for each caliber of firearm I am cleaning. A regular patch holder is likely to rub against the lining of the bore during the cleaning process. A jag pushes the patch through the bore and the patch makes contact all the way around. I like to use round patches because they work even better than the square ones. I have different rod guides that I use for my different rifles. I use a good copper solvent with the patches and brushes before rinsing the bore out with some Powder Blast. This gets out the rest of the fouling and solvent residue. I use good old Hoppes #9 for cleaning powder fouling . Hoppes also works great for preserving the bluing. Even the bluing on my 40 year-old Model 94 still looks new. After the bore is clean I like to spray some Rem Oil on a patch and run it through the bore before putting the gun away, and yes I run a dry patch through it before shooting it again. Maybe all of this is boring to you but it works for me and keeps my guns in great shape.

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Old 11-19-2011, 06:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueTurf
I have not used a regular patch holder for years. I use a good one-piece cleaning rod and brass jags designed for each caliber of firearm I am cleaning. A regular patch holder is likely to rub against the lining of the bore during the cleaning process. A jag pushes the patch through the bore and the patch makes contact all the way around. I like to use round patches because they work even better than the square ones. I have different rod guides that I use for my different rifles. I use a good copper solvent with the patches and brushes before rinsing the bore out with some Powder Blast. This gets out the rest of the fouling and solvent residue. I use good old Hoppes #9 for cleaning powder fouling . Hoppes also works great for preserving the bluing. Even the bluing on my 40 year-old Model 94 still looks new. After the bore is clean I like to spray some Rem Oil on a patch and run it through the bore before putting the gun away, and yes I run a dry patch through it before shooting it again. Maybe all of this is boring to you but it works for me and keeps my guns in great shape.
Not boring at all, sounds just as easy as how I did it. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:21 AM   #9
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I try not to be in a hurry when I clean my guns. It might take me about an hour to clean just one rifle, usually my M1A. I just put on some music, maybe have a cup of coffee and go about the process. I don't mind doing this at all. There are things I could be doing that I don't really like much at all. While I am here I gotta mention Hoppes #9 again. It isn't strong enough to remove copper very well but it is great for wiping down the outside of the metal. I have done this with all of my guns for a long time and the bluing on all of them still looks new. I also clean moving parts with it. I even carefully and lightly wipe down the outside of my scopes sometimes. So far so good.

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Old 11-20-2011, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueTurf View Post
I try not to be in a hurry when I clean my guns. It might take me about an hour to clean just one rifle, usually my M1A. I just put on some music, maybe have a cup of coffee and go about the process. I don't mind doing this at all. There are things I could be doing that I don't really like much at all. While I am here I gotta mention Hoppes #9 again. It isn't strong enough to remove copper very well but it is great for wiping down the outside of the metal. I have done this with all of my guns for a long time and the bluing on all of them still looks new. I also clean moving parts with it. I even carefully and lightly wipe down the outside of my scopes sometimes. So far so good.
You know they even have a Hoppes #9 air freshener now? I told my mom about it, and she said "hey just dump a bottle of it in your truck". I said "yeah, the main ingredient is kerosene, and I smoke. I'm sure that'll work out real well."
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