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Old 02-14-2010, 06:49 PM   #11
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Onething to certainly watch out for is the region that you live in. I live in Hawaii and stainless just doesn't have the same meaning here. I've seen stainless rust with no signs mioster getting to it. Here its so humid all the time that I'm not sure you could garanty get the water out of all the little nooks and crannies. If you live on a southern coastline, I would think the same rules would apply. Just my $0.02

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Old 02-17-2010, 01:46 AM   #12
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I never understood why people think you cant get a carbon steel gun wet. When you shoot corrosive ammunition you clean the bore with warm soapy water. Black powder guns are cleaned with soapy water. In WWII back at base camps rifles were removed from the wood and metal parts put into tubs of boiling water to clean them. I have a cop friend with a S&W 4006 and he disassembles his gun after, going to the range, and puts it in his automatic dishwasher. I have had totally mudsoaked guns in the field I washed out in a mountain stream. The key is to let them dry and oil them up as soon as possible.

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Old 02-18-2010, 02:02 AM   #13
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I dont use any solvents on my Glock, I wipe everything down with a dry cloth, run the brush down the barrel till its clean and re oil it. Never EVER had a problem. Thats what Glock actually recommends. They say you shouldnt have to use solvent unless the firearm hasnt been cleaned for so long that it has caked on stuff in certain areas.

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Old 02-18-2010, 10:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30-30remchester View Post
I never understood why people think you cant get a carbon steel gun wet. When you shoot corrosive ammunition you clean the bore with warm soapy water. Black powder guns are cleaned with soapy water. In WWII back at base camps rifles were removed from the wood and metal parts put into tubs of boiling water to clean them. I have a cop friend with a S&W 4006 and he disassembles his gun after, going to the range, and puts it in his automatic dishwasher. I have had totally mudsoaked guns in the field I washed out in a mountain stream. The key is to let them dry and oil them up as soon as possible.
When I see a 2 gal dehumidifier tank go from empty to full in 4 hours I worry. But you're right, as long as you clean, thoroughly dry and immediately oil it'll be fine.
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:33 AM   #15
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After washing the gun, shake it dry. Then, saturate it with WD 40 to remove residual moisture. Shake the WD 40 out, and blot the gun dry. Lubricate it, and reassemble.

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Old 02-20-2010, 02:44 AM   #16
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I have a CZ-52 I shoot corrosive ammo through. If I want to get all the water out I use my wife's hair dryer.

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Old 02-20-2010, 04:10 AM   #17
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Mac is right- In Hawai'i, steel is considered biodegradable!

Real key is gong to be did your cleaning solvent (be it Hoppes #9 or ElectroSol with Lemon!) dissolve whatever you meant it to dissolve? Carbon from powder residue is one thing, salts from corrosive primers another, lead/copper fouling another, and taco sauce another (I TOLD you quit keeping your lunch in my range box!)

The kettle full of hot water and M1 Garands was for a reason- much Garand ammo WAS corrosive primed. It WILL take care of the chlorate salts, and with some soap, powder residue- but not metal fouling. Ultrasonics clean everything. My .50 Hawken HAS no copper fouling- only dead soft lead bullets and REAL black powder- Dawn and hot water the way to go.

Whatever you use, dry it well and lube it after. Buy your OWN blow dryer for the shop instead of swiping Mom's- you'll thank me for that later!

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Old 02-21-2010, 08:00 AM   #18
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A heat gun costs $10 from Harbor Freight.
Be very careful using it on plastic guns, though!

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