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Old 01-04-2011, 11:34 PM   #11
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A switch barrel is on where you have say a 243, 260 308 barrels. All are set to be able to be taken off with a simple action wrench that you insert into the bolt raceways and unscrew the action and stock from the barrel that is in a barrel vice. then you remove that barrel from the vice then place a different barrel in the vice and screw the action back on to the barrel then torque it with the action wrench. there is no need for all that ugly looking savage nut junk. Click on the picture below to watch the video on changing out a switch barrel.

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Old 01-05-2011, 03:15 AM   #12
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definitely the TC....my dad had the XP-100 in .35 remington....when the Thompsons came out he sold it and got a Thompson Contender "super 14" in
.35 remington haha

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Old 01-05-2011, 06:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpttango30 View Post
A switch barrel is on where you have say a 243, 260 308 barrels. All are set to be able to be taken off with a simple action wrench that you insert into the bolt raceways and unscrew the action and stock from the barrel that is in a barrel vice. then you remove that barrel from the vice then place a different barrel in the vice and screw the action back on to the barrel then torque it with the action wrench. there is no need for all that ugly looking savage nut junk. Click on the picture below to watch the video on changing out a switch barrel.

I am aware of what switching barrels entails. Without the "ugly looking savage nut junk", how do you plan to set head space? Regardless of whether a barrel has been installed on a bolt action receiver before if there's no way to adjust head space without a lathe then you really don't have switch barrel firearm. You can take a barrel off a bolt action receiver and reinstall in ten seconds later, but you still need to headspace it to take the difference in torque into account which will have an effect on the headspace. Unless you have absolute absolute faith in your thread timing and torque, as well as the tools to measure it, the "ugly looking savage nut junk" is the most reliable way to do it.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:05 PM   #14
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You headspace it when you cut the chamber with the action installed.

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Old 01-05-2011, 07:25 PM   #15
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If you headspace it by cutting the chamber with the action installed, you're simply swapping a barrel into a semi permanent position. If you have to cut the chamber every time the barrel is swapped it is not a true switch barrel rifle. Switch barrel meaning that no gunsmithing is needed to swap cartridges aside from unscrewing the barrel and screwing on another and adjusting headspace. Headspace is set on a Savage or Stevens action by screwing the barrel onto the action with a no go guage in the chamber, then tightening the barrel nut to secure the barrel to the receiver. The Remington switch barrel receivers utilize the exact same set up- thread barrel onto receiver with guage to set head space, then tighten barrel nut to maintain correct headspace and secure barrel to receiver. Exactly the same ugly Savage barrel nut system, but it says Remington on the receiver and was converted by a gunsmith who charged for it to set the hadspace with the nut instead of off the barrel shoulder. We can split hairs and say that if the recoil lug is pinned and you use the exact same torque every single time then every bolt rifle/handgun is a switch barrel rifle/ handgun.

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Old 01-05-2011, 07:59 PM   #16
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With a regular action you set the headspace with the barrel on the action and it tightened down to 40 to 60ft #. There is no need for all this chamber cutting. A true switch barrel has set headspace so that with you screw the action back on it it is already headspaced. I have no idea where you are going with this. It is done all the time. The video above shows you that it can be done on a remington action with out trying to make it a savage.

I know guys that have switch barrels. Some even have different bolts and or bolt heads that switch out. so you can switch from a 223 to a 22-250 in a matter for a few minutes.

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Old 01-05-2011, 09:26 PM   #17
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Bottom line was that you can't switch a barrel willey nilley without some significant work involved before hand. You're the one that brought up recutting/ finish reaming a chamber after a barrel is installed. The difference between SWAPPING and SWITCHING is in the interpretation apparently.

I maintain that with a barrel that is headspaced off the shoulder i.e. Remington, Winchester, Ruger, Sako, or an other action that headspaces off the shoulder of the barrel, you cannot simply screw and unscrew barrels at leisure based on a torque reading. You can't permanently "set headspace" unless there are no variables. Will it go bang after? Sure. Maybe once, maybe ten times or a hundred. Headspace needs to be set with a guage if there is any variable. If a barrel is attached with external threads on the barrel only and internal threads on the receiver only, then there are variables. Everything from torque to lubricant on the threads has an effect on headspace.

If you really really want to be right then I digress.

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Old 01-06-2011, 02:29 AM   #18
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Jeep I can put you in contact with guys that have switch barrel guns. There is no barrel nut at all.

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Old 01-06-2011, 04:01 AM   #19
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They needed to make a bolt repeater with the bolt on the left hand side. If you're holding the pistol in your right hand and the bolt is on the right side of the action you're in for some inconvenience. A friend of mine had a left hand
Sako action made up as a 3 rd .358 Win pistol, it's a jewel. If I was into that kind of thing I'd build one. But I'm not.

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Old 01-07-2011, 02:36 PM   #20
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To build a pistol out of a rifle action you have to pay the $200 tax stamp and registar it as a SBR.

You are right that the left bolt right port version would make a much better pistol. Many bench rest shooters have a left bolt right port on their rifles.

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