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Old 10-06-2013, 12:59 AM   #21
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It might not be a size problem (why do u guys always think size anyways first???) but also could be just a belling issue when expanding the mouth to accept the bullet.

and dont seat the bullet any deeper than needed, or you could introduce higher pressures into the load. The seating depth looks fin in your pic.

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Old 10-06-2013, 01:17 AM   #22
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You need to get a set of proper dies. 38/357 is not for 9mm. You should not use a roll crimp on a semi auto round. You probably have lead being shaved and piling up in the chamber or getting stuck to the outside of the case. Your slide is definitely forcing that round into the chamber. I am surprised it is even going into battery. When it comes to reloading you should not be so cheap that you are using the wrong dies. A set of Lee 9mm dies will cost less than 2 boxes of factory ammo. They are much cheaper than a new gun or a trip to the emergency room.

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Old 10-06-2013, 01:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW357 View Post
I don't load 9mm but do load 45 ACP. It may be the pic but that looks like a lot of crimp.
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You need to get a set of proper dies. 38/357 is not for 9mm. You should not use a roll crimp on a semi auto round. You probably have lead being shaved and piling up in the chamber or getting stuck to the outside of the case. Your slide is definitely forcing that round into the chamber. I am surprised it is even going into battery. When it comes to reloading you should not be so cheap that you are using the wrong dies. A set of Lee 9mm dies will cost less than 2 boxes of factory ammo. They are much cheaper than a new gun or a trip to the emergency room.
I use both roll and taper on my 45's and have found either one will work in moderation.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:05 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rick1967 View Post
You need to get a set of proper dies. 38/357 is not for 9mm. You should not use a roll crimp on a semi auto round. You probably have lead being shaved and piling up in the chamber or getting stuck to the outside of the case. Your slide is definitely forcing that round into the chamber. I am surprised it is even going into battery. When it comes to reloading you should not be so cheap that you are using the wrong dies. A set of Lee 9mm dies will cost less than 2 boxes of factory ammo. They are much cheaper than a new gun or a trip to the emergency room.
^^^ This ^^^
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:15 AM   #25
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Just got back from dinner. Would've posted earlier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Anna_Purna
It might not be a size problem (why do u guys always think size anyways first???) but also could be just a belling issue when expanding the mouth to accept the bullet. and dont seat the bullet any deeper than needed, or you could introduce higher pressures into the load. The seating depth looks fin in your pic.

I knew seating the bullet deeper would cause a spike in pressure. Honestly not sure why I even said anything about it.
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Originally Posted by Rick1967
You need to get a set of proper dies. 38/357 is not for 9mm. You should not use a roll crimp on a semi auto round. You probably have lead being shaved and piling up in the chamber or getting stuck to the outside of the case. Your slide is definitely forcing that round into the chamber. I am surprised it is even going into battery. When it comes to reloading you should not be so cheap that you are using the wrong dies. A set of Lee 9mm dies will cost less than 2 boxes of factory ammo. They are much cheaper than a new gun or a trip to the emergency room.
Thanks for the advice. For what its worth, I'm only using the .357/.38 for priming.

Like I said, I am new to reloading. What kinds of crimps are there, and what do you mean by a roll crimp?

You're spot on with the lead shaving off thing, but I believe that is actually happening in my Hornady bullet seating die (it also crimps in the same step), which is actually for 9mm. I assumed this was just a side-effect of using non-jacketed bullets.

I have been meaning to buy a new set of dies anyway, as I honestly don't really like the Hornady set. Previously, I had an issue with consistency in seating depths. I believe I have eliminated that problem, but it left a bad taste in my mouth.

So Rick, you're pretty convinced its an issue with the wrong crimp? You don't think the round isn't seating far enough into the bbl?
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:41 AM   #26
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Never roll crimp a round that headspace on the case mouth. Only taper crimp. You definitely have a roll crimp in that picture. This is why you can't extract them. They are being jammed into the chamber. This can cause high pressures. I recommend you pull those bullets and start over with a taper crimp die. Those cases will need to be resized. A proper taper crimp will look like there is no crimp.

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Old 10-06-2013, 04:14 AM   #27
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A roll crimp is used for revolver rounds. It rolls the end of the case into the grove in the bullet. This is because revolver rounds have a rim on the end of the case to keep them from going into the cylinder too far. A semi auto is different. If you take your gun apart and look into the chamber you will see that the chamber is actually a bigger diameter than the barrel is. That is because a semi auto round does not have a rim. The case mouth needs to hit that step between the chamber and the barrel. That is what keeps it from going in too deep.

It looks to me that you are experiencing two problems. The first is that you are shaving lead when you seat the bullet. It is stuck on the end of the case. That is why it is not chambering properly. Secondly you are either roll crimping or you are over taper crimping by a huge amount. That is probably what is shaving the lead when you are seating the bullet. If it is a true 9mm taper crimp then you need to back way off. If it is a roll crimp...stop using it.

If it is a taper crimp...start out by backing the die out so that it does not touch the case when the ram is all the way up. Now screw the seater in a little at a time and test seat a bullet. You are not trying to crimp. Do it a little at a time until the bullet is the right depth. Once you get it right, back the seater out of the die. Now you are ready to crimp. Slowly screw the die in while the ram is up. Once it touches the case you want to screw in a tiny bit at a time and test crimp as you go. When you get it right it will drop right into your barrel. When you have a good round finished put it back in the press. Run the ram up. The crimping die will already be set. You will now screw in the seating die until it touches the bullet that you just finished. Now get a fresh a case and a fresh bullet. See if it will make a round that fits. If so you are set up.

I usually make a magazine full of dummy rounds with no primers or powder the first time I load for a gun. After I test fit the rounds I will load them in a mag and put it in the gun. Cycle the action to see if it will load and eject each round.

This is a long post. But this is the correct way to do it.

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Old 10-06-2013, 05:07 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1967
This is a long post. But this is the correct way to do it.
I'm not worried about the length of the post. Thank you for the help. I will re-setup my die tomorrow or later this week and hopefully I can get it right and head to the range in a week to test it out.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:55 PM   #29
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Happy to help. Have fun and be safe. Feel free to send me a private message if you need more help.

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Old 10-06-2013, 09:14 PM   #30
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As several have pointed out, you are not crimping correctly. A roll crimp is for revovlers as they headspace on the rim. A taper crimp is for auto pistol cases that headspace on the case mouth.

NEVER taper crimp in the same operation as bullet seating.

The primer is showing some pressure signs. I would back off on the load. The WCC NATO brass is thicker than normal brass and will push a reasonable load to +P levels because of the reduced capacity.

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