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Old 06-05-2010, 03:01 AM   #11
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You fellows are gonna think I'm nuts, but for over 30 years I've used sawdust as a dessicant. Stick a cake pan filled with sawdust in the oven at 300 F for half an hour, and then put it in a paper lunch sack and stick the sack in your safe or guncase. Repeat every few weeks.

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Old 06-05-2010, 03:27 AM   #12
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Best product I tried is Evapo-rust (but not used on guns)

Evapo-Rust rust remover description page

From the link...pay attention to the part that it also removes bluing, parkerizing, zinc phosphate and browning!!!

"--------
How Evapo-rust affects coatings

EVAPO-RUST is highly recommended by the NRA gunsmithing school and is utilized by FBI, CIA, NATO and other law enforcement and forensics agencies. EVAPO-RUST is perfect for removing oxide weapon finishes such as Bluing, Parkerizing, Zinc Phosphate, and Browning.

Anodizing, Cobalt Tungsten Carbide, Powder Coating, Chrome, Nickel, Paint, and most other coatings will not be removed as long as they do not contain oxides. EVAPO-RUST will not harm lead or solder points."

==========================

I believe HarborFreight carry it for $19.99 a gallon. You can also find it at Lowe's and Home Depot.

Another known product is Rustoff. It works faster but note that it is an acid and I won't recommend it.

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Old 06-05-2010, 03:42 AM   #13
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That advertisement is immediately confusing for this old fart, mainly because anodizing involves oxidizing. So does browning. So does bluing.

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Old 06-08-2010, 03:58 AM   #14
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Anodizing does not really involve oxidizing. It involves opening aluminum pores, dyeing the opened pores, and sealing them. Aluminum self-oxidizes to aluminum oxide.
Kroil or WD 40 are much better than heavier oils when used with very fine steel wool to remove rust. Militec will not remove rust. Evapo-Rust, Naval Jelly, etc, will REMOVE bluing. Don't use these on guns!

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Old 12-07-2011, 01:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillDeShivs View Post
Anodizing does not really involve oxidizing. It involves opening aluminum pores, dyeing the opened pores, and sealing them. Aluminum self-oxidizes to aluminum oxide.
Kroil or WD 40 are much better than heavier oils when used with very fine steel wool to remove rust. Militec will not remove rust. Evapo-Rust, Naval Jelly, etc, will REMOVE bluing. Don't use these on guns!
Anodizing is oxidizing of aluminum. Through the electrochemical process an oxide layer is formed on the surface of the aluminum....there are 2 types of anodizing: Barrier Type and Cellular Type. The Cellular type is what you are referring to. This oxide layer has pores which dye is added and after added, cooled so that the pores can seal the color in.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:55 PM   #16
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This is why I've been searching for a lubricant you can get by the

quart, rather than the ounce.

Anybody do better than Mobil 1 Synthetic?

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Old 12-07-2011, 06:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblob7

Anodizing is oxidizing of aluminum. Through the electrochemical process an oxide layer is formed on the surface of the aluminum....there are 2 types of anodizing: Barrier Type and Cellular Type. The Cellular type is what you are referring to. This oxide layer has pores which dye is added and after added, cooled so that the pores can seal the color in.
The oven cleaner EZ OFF will take of anodization, ive done it once before. Its pretty caustic but it works. Spray the part with a good amount and let it set for about 5 minutes. Wash it off with water and repeat until the anodization is gone
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therewolf
This is why I've been searching for a lubricant you can get by the

quart, rather than the ounce.

Anybody do better than Mobil 1 Synthetic?
I actually think that the mobil 1 synthetic is the best
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