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Robar np3?


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Old 06-20-2012, 05:12 PM   #11
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Zombie,

I can not post any pics since I do not have the pistol anymore since we traded them in at the PD years ago before I retired. However I have nothing but good to say about the Robar NP-3 Finish. We had Model 96-F Beretta Service Pistols and I was the Department Armorer and Rangemaster. I can say we had Zero problems at all with the NP-3 Finish on the pistols rather to coating or in regard to corrosion. It is an excellent finish and was originally used and still is by the US Navy for ships, weapons and applications due to the effects of salt water and corrosion. To make is simple, it is a composition of chrome and millions of Teflon particles impregnated in the finish. That is why it looks similar to that of brushed stailess. I would prefer it to stainless due to its gliding ability when metal meets metal. It provides durability, resistance to corrosion as well as improves the glide surfaces of the Slide and Frame and other parts. In your case the Slide and Barrel. I would recomend it and it is a "tuff" finish also.

03
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Last edited by Sniper03; 06-20-2012 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper03
Zombie,

I can not post any pics since I do not have the pistol anymore since we traded them in at the PD years ago before I retired. However I have nothing but good to say about the Robar NP-3 Finish. We had Model 96-F Beretta Service Pistols and I was the Department Armorer and Rangemaster. I can say we had Zero problems at all with the NP-3 Finish on the pistols rather to coating or in regard to corrosion. It is an excellent finish and was originally used and still is by the US Nave for ships, weapons and applications due to the effects of salt water and corrosion. To make is simple, it is a composition of chrome and millions of Teflon particles impregnated in the finish. That is why it looks similar to that of brushed stailess. I would prefer it to stainless due to its gliding ability when metal meets metal. It provides durability, resistance to corrosion as well as improves the glide surfaces of the Slide and Frame and other parts. In your case the Slide and Barrel. I would recomend it and it is a "tuff" finish also.

03
Thank you sir thats great to hear you ought to do their online postings about it!
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:05 PM   #13
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You said once you get over the price, how much does it cost ?
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonzilla
You said once you get over the price, how much does it cost ?
I think for the two tone color with np3 internals the list was $399 for a whole pistol.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kytowboater

I think for the two tone color with np3 internals the list was $399 for a whole pistol.
Ouch!! Im looking to just match my guide and barrel, still $100!!
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:06 AM   #16
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http://www.robarguns.com/Robar%20Price%20List%20Effective%20October%2018th, %202011.pdf

Here is there current price list.

It's true they aren't as cheap as a can of spray on and some oven time.

What did you pay for your weapon? What would you pay to replace the parts in question?

What is your time worth when you are cleaning it?

For me, I have coated a Kimber (Goju has it - and carries it), a Taurus (Benning has it - and carries it daily) and I coated my NH GRP.

It takes me half the time to clean as it did before I got it coated.

For me, this was a no brainer and I will be sending in my ACC and my Osprey when they have another monthly deal.

The Robar treatment isn't the cheapest, and there is a reason for that, because it's the most comprehensive and complete treatment for your steel that is out there.

JD
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillinger
http://www.robarguns.com/Robar%20Price%20List%20Effective%20October%2018th, %202011.pdf

Here is there current price list.

It's true they aren't as cheap as a can of spray on and some oven time.

What did you pay for your weapon? What would you pay to replace the parts in question?

What is your time worth when you are cleaning it?

For me, I have coated a Kimber (Goju has it - and carries it), a Taurus (Benning has it - and carries it daily) and I coated my NH GRP.

It takes me half the time to clean as it did before I got it coated.

For me, this was a no brainer and I will be sending in my ACC and my Osprey when they have another monthly deal.

The Robar treatment isn't the cheapest, and there is a reason for that, because it's the most comprehensive and complete treatment for your steel that is out there.

JD
Its for my $1200 custom XDM .45, i dont want and shouldnt have to replace anything, the goal of this gun is a all around gun, workhorse, carry, last forever, and look good doing it. Its nothing short of my baby, so yeah id do anything haha good to hear though thank you! Ill be sending my parts off soon!
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:52 AM   #18
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If you had the frame and slide coated, I take it you need to make sure you have checkering on the frame (slippery).

Has there been a lab study (independent) in the black Roguard vs Cerakote? NIC Industries make it seem like it is the most resistant coating. I know Roguard and NP3 (+) has better lubricity, but is it better as salt water and abrassion resistance. Also how black is the roguard vs cerakote.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michigan0626
If you had the frame and slide coated, I take it you need to make sure you have checkering on the frame (slippery).

Has there been a lab study (independent) in the black Roguard vs Cerakote? NIC Industries make it seem like it is the most resistant coating. I know Roguard and NP3 (+) has better lubricity, but is it better as salt water and abrassion resistance. Also how black is the roguard vs cerakote.
Not sure though i hear good things, im leaving my xdm melonite and the frame standard as well only internals get np3
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