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Old 07-16-2012, 03:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTAIL
Where does one buy these Duracoat air blasting kits at.? I was just wondering if YouTube has any videos on how to use those kits etc.?
Try amazon or just type duracoat in google. They have shake and spray kits that work pretty well for about 30 bucks. It comes with everything you need. For the higher quality you need an air compressor and an airbrush set up.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:15 AM   #32
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I bought an air brush kit from Harbor Freight. Two colors of Duracoat + air brush kit from Harbor Freight = waste of money IMO.

Found a gunsmith than does the best high polish bluing and price is much less than what I paid for the Duracoat and the end result is in a completely different ballpark. If I wanted a tough finish to resist wear, I'd save up and go with Hard Hat Treatment or Ion Bond.
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:05 AM   #33
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PREPARATION is definately the key. I had used the spray kit to start, outside at a picnic table ( I live in a apt.), when that did not turn out right I then went to use the air brush with a can of compressd air....then finally, I purchased air comprtessor with the air brush and it looks great.

I then went out to the Duracoat factory to become certified ( my pics are on the new Duracoat University pages!! :-) and my name should be placed on the website within the next several weeks. I had experimented and tried several different times before I got it right....but this is how I do everything it seems......:-) Proceed.....and after 2-3 x's if not correct, READ THE DIRECTIONS!!! Hahahahahaha... oh well...

Honestly though....the proper preparation is the key. Prior to going to the factory, I was still not doing it correctly. I would degrease again after scuffing it up. Then I touched up and sprayed another coat 2 weeks later. It has to be within 7 days for any touchup. And finally, I had used the hardner when it had already started to set up. It MUST be kept clean an tightly sealed. I was impatient and could not wait for more hardner to come. I now have a garage to work out of, which hopefully will eliminate many of the issues I was having of space and time.

The BEST way ( and not every one can do this...but this IS the best way ) is to FIRST...Degrease the parts, steel and aluminum....allow to air dry, should take less than a minute...then sand blast them with 120 grit Aluminum Oxide ( or 1200 grit sandpaper ifblasting is not an option ) but be carefull to not stay at one spot...glide over the part, blow clean with compresse air then parkerize the steel parts by dipping into a heated tank (180 degees) for about 5-10 mins. ( I do not have this set up at home, so I will be using DuraPhos, which is almost as good as the normal parkerizing method, until I get the full set up ), rinse with clean water for 45 seconds, blow dry again with clean air, then Duracoat. ( the blasting with Alum. Oxide gets the surface smooth, clean and even or is supposed to depending on your parts, then the parkerizing ( remember ONLY ON STEEL ) helps prepare the surface for a BETTER contact area for the Duracoat to adhere to. Glide the Duracoat evenly over the parts starting the spray before getting onto the part...start to spay a few inches before while gliding onto the part not starting directly on the part itself, this gives a smoother surface area and cleaner even look to it....then..if you want to help speed up the initial curing process, so that you can add extra colors for camo, bake the steel and aluminum parts for 15mins at 110 degrees. If not...allow 24 hours in a clean even temp. environment.

I know...this seems like ALOT...and...it is in some ways...but this is the IDEAL and BEST preparation. It is not the ONLY way to do it, but it is he MOST durable and professional method.

If you are not able to complete all these steps, and want to use only the spray on kit, Degrease properly, I do like the TruStrip from them and trust it, it evaporates almost immediately, then use 1000-1200 ultra fine sand paper to get the surface nice and smooth with an abrasive surface for proper adhesion of the coating. Glide over the surface evenly wth smooth strokes and not too thick. Bake or air dry for 24 hours in a clean place...and whala!! You should have a nice, clean, professional look to your firearm!

If you like, you can work the DuraPhos into your steps also as a bonus.

There are many other little tricks here and there....but.....I paid alot to learn them :-). Mor in air fare and hotels,car than the class itself!!

I actually wish I had just this information spelled out for me when I first started. But..we all learn at a diff. pace. So.., if this helps anyone out, I will be happy, and they should be satisfied with a job well done. I honestly believe that probably 99% of the complaints with Duacoat have o do with the set up and preparation as well as the surrounding temperature and humidity.....it is hot and humid here in the MD area......Many days I have been unable to wrk due to the heat & humidity.

Please excuse any typos left, as my keyboard is giving me fits, and I tried to clean up as many as I had patience for :-)





To even out the camo colors you can use TruLube over the Duacoat, which I have not used yet, but just ordered it.

I have invested time ad money into this process as I believe in the product. As with everything, there is learning curve, with me.......since childhood....it usally takes longer than others but.... :-)
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:37 AM   #34
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The whole idea of getting into this was as a hobby. The thought of it as a p/t occupation came about only after being laid off from my full time job. So the money to purchase these weapons and accessories has been slow in coming.

I am also teaching myself gunsmithing and the tools for each weapon can get a little pricey. I plan to be attending factory armorers courses when affordable in the future a well. I don't know why I had not thought of this years earlier, as I had been ready for another career change many many years ago. I have been shooting weapons for over 40+ years, and use to compete in my teens.

I am by no means a long term expert w DCoat, but plan to be. I do have some experience and knowledge from attending the workshop ( which was great practice and informative ) and doing a weapon or two of my own. I only hope to share this information so that others do not make the mistakes that I did, and have a good experience right away. I see many posts that I believe did not turn out right due to the prep & process.

A few things I forgot or did not mention. I am pretty sure that it is "LATEX", that cannot be anywhere near the Duracoat material, or even in the same room. For some reason, this will cause the Duracoat to flake, peel and generally not allow it to adhere to the surface of your parts. I cannot find the reference material with this information, but will post it when I do.

I did not mention using Duracoat on wood, as I have not done that yet, and will only post info with first hand knowledge. I plan to use wood in the near future and will post this when completed. I have not placed any pictures on here as the weapons (2) that I had completed correctly, finally..:-) I have blasted clean and plan to redo in a different color. I "have" purchased a shotgun, a Rock Island Armory M5, just to put a Tactical Camo packgage on, as a show piece of my work. I will be doing either a ATI MP5SD or a H&K MP5SD ( have not decided if paying the extra for the HK is worth it yet ) and will be purchasing a Glock and a 1911 in addition as show pieces vey soon.

These are some of the most utilized firearms today as well as the Beretta 92/96, Beretta Storm, M&P 9mm/40/45, XD&XD-M 9/40/45, HK USP, P30, P2000, Tactical 40/45, Ak47 & AR15.

I had big plans after attending the workshop to come back & start earning a living right away, but have had these plans slightly dashed & placed on hold. I have come to find out that A.) I either have to work under someone's existing FFL or B.) I need to acquire one for myself. I will be in discussion next week about working under someone's FFL an hope that this will come to fruitition quickly.

So..until then...happy gunning...be safe, join & support the NRA and DO NOT shoot anyone who does not deserve to be shot :-) Meaning burglar, home invader, etc, etc!!
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:53 AM   #35
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TO RUSS

Actually out at the factory they recommend to NOT BED BLAST as this puts too much of a polished finish to the surface and does not allow a good adhesion. It is recommended to use 120 grit Aluminum Oxide.

The main reason it will not adhere to stainless steel is that usually it is already too smooth to coat over. It has to be roughed up, even if it is on a microsurface level to allow that gripping surface. And then to parkerize if stainless steel can be parkeried, which I think it can, but am not absoltely sure.

Maybe someone with more experience working with SS can chime in. But it does need to be blasted with the AO, recommended at 120 grit if you are not very experienced doing this.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:06 AM   #36
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TO RUSS



Errrrrr...BEAD BLAST :-) Not bed blast....damn keyboard!!
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:18 AM   #37
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TO OLYMPUS

Did your rubber gloves by chance have Latex in them or was Latex anywhere in the same room that you used? This could have caused you problems without your knowledge.

Or if the finish was too smooth to start with, such as polished or bead blasted?

Just some thoughts. :-)

They will tell you from the factory that very small parts are difficult, as there is not much surface to adhere to. With a very clean surface and the material completely sprayed on, it adhering to itself is the strongest method, but probably not the most ideal.

Any above surface finish no matter which one it is , over the long haul with very hard use, and holster wear is one of the toughest, will eventually show wear. For the ABSOLUTE BEST PROTECTION for something like a slide, something embedded INTO the metal would probably be the strongest, but also the most expensive.

I was quoted $200 for my AR stainless barrel to be Ion treated, which I will now do with Duacoat for about $15. :-) Since I am not military, I do not anticipate that it will wear off.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:34 AM   #38
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If Duracoat's hardener is like other 2 part paint........we use Argon to displace the air before re-sealing can.I think there's a commercial product,Bloxygen?....or something that comes in a can.In anycase it really works.Otherwise the shelf life of hardener's is rather short.

And at the risk of sounding like a safety nazi......I can't stress enough how important protecting your lungs are.IOW's look into small to med sized spraybooth.Look on evil-bay for used.This will not only clue you in to the design.....but sets a $$ target for any DIY booths.They work......and raises the whole professionalism of your shop.Good luck.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:04 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Just not the case in 100% of scenarios. I followed the instructions to the letter. I used rubber gloves to keep my finger prints from touching the prepped metal. And I started out with a gun that had been fully parkerized, which Lauer says is the IDEAL surface for Duracoat to adhere to. I even let the finish cure a couple days longer than the instructions said.

I'm glad you had good results with your Duracoat. But just because you did, doesn't mean that everyone else will too. And when I say I followed the instructions to the letter, I mean to the LETTER. Bottom line.....YMMV!
I bet you got some bad product or your mix was somehow off and you didn't know it. Ken
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #40
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I used a fairly heavy rubber glove and sprayed them off with degreaser first. I also started with a parkerized gun.

The gun I did was a Citadel Compact 1911. The first parts to start flaking were the heads of the pins. Then the surface of the hammer started flaking off where it would strike the firing pin. Then it started flaking off the sharp edges of the gun. The flat surfaces were always good to go, but the rest of the gun looked like crap. I'm not saying Duracoat is bad, just that it's not a 100% guarantee that it will turn out perfectly and last for years. And considering the time it took me to do everything and the cost of the materials and equipment, I will choose another route next time.

Not sure what gunsmiths are charging for Duracoating, but for reference this high polish reblue cost me $90.

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