[dragunovsks]

Originally Posted by HOSSFLY

I kind of compare that picture to a picture of a cheeseburger you see at Jack In The Box----- Always looks a little different when its served up to you

Yea, meat slid halfway off the bun, bun smashed like it was run over by a mack truck and way to much sauce on it, squirting out one side...lol

Well i figured having it done by a gunsmith would ensure better results.

[Argyle_Armoring]

Originally Posted by ibewiggin

Ceracoat is a lot more durable. Especially if you use the bake on type.

I do the bake type cerakote and it is more durable than duracoat. I can do for you exactly what you like. Just visit my site or PM me.

[ibewiggin]

I think cerakote, may be the most durable finish out there. I do not how ever agree with pink, blue, orange, etc. Guns should never look like toys, and toys should never look like guns. My $.02 worth.

[HOSSFLY]

Originally Posted by dragunovsks

Yea, meat slid halfway off the bun, bun smashed like it was run over by a mack truck and way to much sauce on it, squirting out one side...lol

Well i figured having it done by a gunsmith would ensure better results.

Yup- thats it

Now my gunsmith did show me one about like the one pictured he had just finished & it looked great! Only thing is i have no idea how it held up with use

[JustinM]

That's my biggest concern with any of the finishes. I don't know how well it will hold up going in and out of my serpa holster and firing it.

[robocop10mm]

For a stainless slide I recommend bead blasting. It will give you a nice satin finish.

[joken]

For you guy's that have problems with your DC peeling, flaking etc, listen up. If you have the above mentioned issues, it is because you did not properly prep the piece. The firearm must be COMPLETELY disassembeled and degreased. The pieces to be coated should also be bead blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide and even better park it after blasting. You can get a good job without blasting, but you need to follow the instructions. Oil hides around pins and rivets. The joint where the barrel screws into the receiver also traps oil and you have to get it out. All finishes wear. DC is not as wear resistant as Cerakote, but it's a lot tougher than bluing. DC can be touched up later and Cerakote cannot. I use both depending on the look I want and the use the piece will see. Heat cure Cerakote would be my choice for a carry gun. DC will last a long time on a hunting rifle or pistol that is not carried. My Colt is Cerakote with Duracoat in the slide sides. I wanted them shiney and Cerakote has no gloss. Ken

[epwrangler]

I did a 1911 using engine paint that I baked on. Three thin coats and it has held up very well. That paint is tough. I used the cast iron color and it is neat. The key is in cleaning and degreasing. I used brake cleaner on a disassembled gun before painting and baking at 400 degrees for 30 minutes each coat.

[Olympus]

Originally Posted by joken

For you guy's that have problems with your DC peeling, flaking etc, listen up. If you have the above mentioned issues, it is because you did not properly prep the piece. The firearm must be COMPLETELY disassembeled and degreased. The pieces to be coated should also be bead blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide and even better park it after blasting. You can get a good job without blasting, but you need to follow the instructions. Oil hides around pins and rivets. The joint where the barrel screws into the receiver also traps oil and you have to get it out. All finishes wear. DC is not as wear resistant as Cerakote, but it's a lot tougher than bluing. DC can be touched up later and Cerakote cannot. I use both depending on the look I want and the use the piece will see. Heat cure Cerakote would be my choice for a carry gun. DC will last a long time on a hunting rifle or pistol that is not carried. My Colt is Cerakote with Duracoat in the slide sides. I wanted them shiney and Cerakote has no gloss. Ken

Just not the case in 100% of scenarios. I followed the instructions to the letter. I used rubber gloves to keep my finger prints from touching the prepped metal. And I started out with a gun that had been fully parkerized, which Lauer says is the IDEAL surface for Duracoat to adhere to. I even let the finish cure a couple days longer than the instructions said.

I'm glad you had good results with your Duracoat. But just because you did, doesn't mean that everyone else will too. And when I say I followed the instructions to the letter, I mean to the LETTER. Bottom line.....YMMV!

[REDTAIL]

Where does one buy these Duracoat air blasting kits at.? I was just wondering if YouTube has any videos on how to use those kits etc.?