Duracoating handguns
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:06 AM   #1
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Default Duracoating handguns

I really want to customize my gun to where my polymer frame is OD green and the slide is flat black but don't want to pay a fortune. At the same time I want a quality job that holds up and doesn't chip or scratch in and out of the holster. Anyone have any experience with the duracoat shake and spray?

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:15 AM   #2
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Duracoat goes on easy. Even if you have never used an airbrush the kit is still easy to use. My buddy just got one of the kits and it was the first time he ever held an airbrush and his glock slide is now beautifully coated in od green. Just follow the directions and put it on thin.

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:37 AM   #3
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I did a two-tone theme on a Citadel 1911 and the results were very mediocre. The finish started flaking off the heads of the pins and face of the hammer. Then it started wearing off all the edges. I'd use it again in a pinch if I bought a gun that was in terrible condition. But other than that, I would not recommend it.

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:57 AM   #4
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I asked about this as well a while back. My H&K P7 is rusting on one side in spite do my best efforts. I think I will have to take it to a pro as the rust and bluing will probably have to. Be removed before a new coating is put on.

I think a dura coat will cover up the unique proof marks but I carry this gun in the summer and I need something more durable.

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Old 07-06-2012, 12:25 PM   #5
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I think it'll be fine on the polymer part but I was very unimpressed with the results on a couple of steel guns i applyed it to

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Old 07-06-2012, 12:41 PM   #6
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I did one in a desert tan frame and flat black slide.

Where the parts rub together, the metal is showing. But I've had the same thing with parkerized handguns.

I did kitchen cabinet door "pulls" in a "brushed stainless" over 5 years ago (the wife liked the color I was doing a frame in.) So far, no problems noted.

The key is preparation and follow instructions to the letter. And keep some extra just in case touch-ups are needed later.

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Old 07-06-2012, 02:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msup752
I asked about this as well a while back. My H&K P7 is rusting on one side in spite do my best efforts. I think I will have to take it to a pro as the rust and bluing will probably have to. Be removed before a new coating is put on.

I think a dura coat will cover up the unique proof marks but I carry this gun in the summer and I need something more durable.
No, don't Duracoat the P7. Either have it reblued or use an actual treatment such as Hard Hat or IonBond instead of using a spray on finish.
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:28 PM   #8
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Ceracoat is a lot more durable. Especially if you use the bake on type.

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Old 07-06-2012, 09:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOSSFLY
I think it'll be fine on the polymer part but I was very unimpressed with the results on a couple of steel guns i applyed it to
The slide is the part I don't like lol. It's the nickel plated or whatever. I'm not a big fan of shiny I wanted all black but to get my gun in all black
I would've had to purchase it used for fifty more dollars than I paid for a new one lol.
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:53 AM   #10
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You didn't state what kind of pistol it is and what finish the slide is in.

If it's like this one, is the slide flat black enough for you? Is so, you can paint just the frame and maybe get the results you want.

I've Duracoated several handguns and they've all turned out and lasted well. I didn't use the shake and spray, though. I used the kit that came with a little airbrush and compressed air can.

I used the shake and spray on a rifle stock and it seemed fine, but it certainly isn't prone to the kind of wear and tear a pistol would go through.

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