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Old 04-20-2011, 01:25 PM   #11
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Hey Jon, how did that happen? That's an odd place for a break....not even a stress area.

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:36 PM   #12
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it was about 200ish rounds in and the slide started sticking. wouldnt go into battery. wouldnt lock to the rear. i was shooting standard velocity remington bulk ammo when it happened so its definately not ammo related as that particular brand doesnt cycle in most of my 22lr firearms. i had to smack it to get it to close it flaked off and the piece was locking the slide. when i took it apart several pieces came out. just defective. ATI is finally replacing the gun. they are sending me a brand new one. i dont expect the new one to have any issues.

they are nice guns you just gotta go through some wierd RMA stuff to send it back. they didnt give me any trouble over the chipped frame and honored their warranty. i cant wait to get it back as it is an excellent shooter.

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Old 04-20-2011, 04:37 PM   #13
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Thanks JonM. One would think that with the number of people registered on this forum, we would have more instances.

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Old 04-20-2011, 04:59 PM   #14
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back in the early 90's you would have a lot more instances as MIM was kinda new to the gun scene and lots of companies like ruger kimber and a few others really cheeped out with really bad mim parts.

mim nowadays is generally just as good with the same failure as machined steel parts. so you really dont have a lot more mim failure than steel or forged part failure.

mim in most respects is not bad to have and quite strong when done right.

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Old 04-20-2011, 05:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
it was about 200ish rounds in and the slide started sticking. wouldnt go into battery. wouldnt lock to the rear. i was shooting standard velocity remington bulk ammo when it happened so its definately not ammo related as that particular brand doesnt cycle in most of my 22lr firearms. i had to smack it to get it to close it flaked off and the piece was locking the slide. when i took it apart several pieces came out. just defective. ATI is finally replacing the gun. they are sending me a brand new one. i dont expect the new one to have any issues.

they are nice guns you just gotta go through some wierd RMA stuff to send it back. they didnt give me any trouble over the chipped frame and honored their warranty. i cant wait to get it back as it is an excellent shooter.
That's just weird all around....There had to have been a fault or contaminant in the metal. From the pictures it doesn't look like it was cracked and working on a break, it looks like a clean break. The only thing I could see that would indicate otherwise is parallel to the bottom of the slide rail, looks like it could be some shearing, the material appears more glossy.

Wonder if it could have been dropped at some point.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:02 PM   #16
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Ok so now I'm curious. Just ditched an order Kimber for a S&W 1911...how does one go about identifying all the MIM parts? Are there some that need to be replaced and some that are a preference? How much skill is involved, especially for rookies that have yet to even field strip a 1911?

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Old 04-20-2011, 06:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
Thanks JonM. One would think that with the number of people registered on this forum, we would have more instances.
A couple of months ago I asked my shooting partner to try to collect all the broken parts he sees at the IDPA and IPSC matches. He shoots every week. He says that rarely a week goes by without at least one guy breaking something. Usually it is on 1911s, and I suspect home fit MIM parts. On his SAI it has been the thumb safety, but I suspect his frame is out of spec as it took a major amount of work to fit an S&A magwell.

I don't know if he has been successful in getting guys to give him their broken parts.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:24 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spittinfire View Post
That's just weird all around....There had to have been a fault or contaminant in the metal. From the pictures it doesn't look like it was cracked and working on a break, it looks like a clean break. The only thing I could see that would indicate otherwise is parallel to the bottom of the slide rail, looks like it could be some shearing, the material appears more glossy.

Wonder if it could have been dropped at some point.

Thanks for sharing.
np, i thihk it was just a simple defect of some sort. its entirely possible it was dropped somewhere between germany and when it showed up here. i know i didnt drop it. the picture is a little deceptive its not a clean break at all its all jagged and rough like a bad metal pour or like you suggest contanimated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpyle View Post
Ok so now I'm curious. Just ditched an order Kimber for a S&W 1911...how does one go about identifying all the MIM parts? Are there some that need to be replaced and some that are a preference? How much skill is involved, especially for rookies that have yet to even field strip a 1911?
colts have the fewest mim parts for the 1000$~ price range. none of them are in areas that will prevent the gun from functioning in a need to shoot NOW!! situation. key places are hammer hammer strut mainspring housing, pins, sear and disconnector, and firing pin block.

firing pin blocks unless they shatter to dust will continue to function have had several steel machined ones break and its not usually till an inspection its discovered. unless the safety pin itself breaks the actual safety portion on the outside can break and the gun will still function.

if its a CCW gun and you are really worried about it just replace the sear, disconectore main spring housing hammer and strut. a gunsmith can do it for not a lot.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:08 PM   #19
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I have had 2 MIM parts break it is the firing pin on a SW model 629 the picture s I have are of the firing pin protruding out of the bushing they are not that good of pictures but you can see it... you can't see how it is broken in pieces but that's what happen twice.

,

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