[jordan89]

Originally Posted by texaswoodworker

That one is for sale if you want it.

Yep! PM me and we can discuss payment method and stuff.

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by Vikingdad

Oh, and to answer your original question I don't use steel cased ammo at all. If I did it would get thrown into the recycle bin and I would get paid for it. $200 a ton last time I brought a load in. I do the same with the worn out brass. Last time it was around $3.00 a pound I think.

I'll have to see what the brass goes for around here. I wonder how many 30-06 cases it would take to make a pound.

Originally Posted by Vikingdad

My son bought a tailstock drill chuck for his JET mini lathe. That drills the bullets just fine.

Antler is tough to turn, you have to keep your tools very sharp and they get dull quickly. Personally I don't like the burned hair smell it makes.

Yeah, thats one of the things I'm needing. I need to get my tail stock fixed first though. It works for what I do now, but the wheel thing (don't know the correct term) won't move the live center (or chuck), so I wouldn't be able to drill with it.

Originally Posted by jordan89

Yep! PM me and we can discuss payment method and stuff.

pm on it's way.

[Vikingdad]

Originally Posted by texaswoodworker

I'll have to see what the brass goes for around here. I wonder how many 30-06 cases it would take to make a pound.

I fill up a 5 gallon bucket with spent brass (including primers) and haul in a bucket at a time. I do scavenge brass from the range and wherever else I can. The brass prices around here will change rapidly, even change during the day. You need to call around ahead of time and find the best price and then call around again and see if the other scrap dealers will beat the high price. The scrappers will screw you if you walk in and ask what they will pay. First they will tell you that case brass is low-grade brass (it is very high grade brass) and then they will low-ball you. The low-grade brass is cast candlesticks imported from India and sold at the flea market. Rifle brass is serious high-grade.

Yeah, thats one of the things I'm needing. I need to get my tail stock fixed first though. It works for what I do now, but the wheel thing (don't know the correct term) won't move the live center (or chuck), so I wouldn't be able to drill with it.

If you fed your tailstock spindle out too far you may have just fallen off the threads. Push the tailstock spindle in and turn the tailstock wheel thingy counter-clockwise. Try it out and let me know.

[texaswoodworker]

Here is some of the wood I have.

Note: the wood will look simular to what it looks like on the outside, but that is not guaranteed. The color, amount of grain, and pattern of grain can change. I have more (or can order more) of some of these woods, but there are a few that I may not be able to get more of. I will try though if you really want it. Also here are a few things you need to know about a few specific woods.

Bodark- It can, and possibly will turn from a golden yellow color, to a brown color if heavily used, or exposed to direct sunlight. It will also darken with age. That is natural.

Purpleheart- May not actually be purple. It also darkens with age.

Curly Pyinma, Curly Maple, and Birdseye Maple-light colored woods do not like to be sanded along with metals (part of the process for making these). They can have darkish spots afterwards. I can try to stop this, and will let you see the results before buying it.

Bethlehem Olivewood-a few of these have a lot of dark grain on the outside, but only a little on the inside. They still make pretty pens though. The also come with a certificate of authenticity.

Here is the list of woods.

1. Leapardwood
2. Leapardwood
3. Curly Red Narra
4. Cocobolo
5. Cocobolo
6. Birdseye Cocobolo
7. Marblewood
8. Bodark (Osage Orange)
9. Zebrawood
10. Black Walnut
11. Bocote
12. Purpleheart
13. Chakte Viga
14. Granadillo
15. Curly Pyinma (Asian Satinwood)
16. Bloodwood
17. Birdseye Maple
18. Curly Maple
19. Curly Pyinma (Asian Satinwood)
20. Ziricote
21. Red Oak
22. Loganberry
23. Loganberry
24. Curly Pyinma (Asian Satinwood)
25. Spalted Red Oak
26. Karri Burl
27-32. Bethlehem Olivewood

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by Vikingdad

I fill up a 5 gallon bucket with spent brass (including primers) and haul in a bucket at a time. I do scavenge brass from the range and wherever else I can. The brass prices around here will change rapidly, even change during the day. You need to call around ahead of time and find the best price and then call around again and see if the other scrap dealers will beat the high price. The scrappers will screw you if you walk in and ask what they will pay. First they will tell you that case brass is low-grade brass (it is very high grade brass) and then they will low-ball you. The low-grade brass is cast candlesticks imported from India and sold at the flea market. Rifle brass is serious high-grade.





If you fed your tailstock spindle out too far you may have just fallen off the threads. Push the tailstock spindle in and turn the tailstock wheel thingy counter-clockwise. Try it out and let me know.

Thanks for the advice on the scrapyard.

I think whats wrong with the tailstock is a ring or something broke. I have taken it apart, and put it back together and still cannot really figure it out. I'll post some pics tomorrow. Thanks

[Vikingdad]

Do you have any interest in chestnut wood blanks?

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by Vikingdad

Do you have any interest in chestnut wood blanks?

sure. What do they look like?

[Vikingdad]

Turns nicely, a little soft as a hardwood but great color. Yellowish and heavy grained. Very stable wood though. The best part is that it is an exotic hardwood that you rarely see yet it is indigenous to the USA. I've got some.

[texaswoodworker]

sure, pm me and we can decide on a price.

[notdku]

I'm impressed. Pen turning is always something I've considered getting into .