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Old 04-06-2013, 05:29 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bobski View Post
see below.
i would simply disconnect the driveshaft and flat tow it with the towbar. with the driveshaft disconnected, the differential won't know the difference. you would need some way to plug the output shaft on the transmission when you pull the driveshaft. try O'Reilly's or AutoZone for a transmission plug for the output shaft.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:44 PM   #22
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so, lets turn it around and tow it nose first on a classic bumper tow bar instead.
im pulling a 1/2 ton truck with all 4 on the road with a 3/4 ton truck with a 2" ball. any hidden woes?
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i would simply disconnect the driveshaft and flat tow it with the towbar. with the driveshaft disconnected, the differential won't know the difference. you would need some way to plug the output shaft on the transmission when you pull the driveshaft. try O'Reilly's or AutoZone for a transmission plug for the output shaft.
I would still use a tow dolly on the front wheels. That way you have some operating brakes on the towed vehicle (which is required in most states) as well as the lights.

As far as the driveshaft, just disconnect the U-joint at the differential and then strap the driveshaft up to the frame so it can't come loose during the trip. That will serve as your tailshaft plug on the transmission. Make sure you don't drop the U-Joint caps and spill out the needle bearings when pulling the joint apart. If you drop even one needle bearing you probably should replace the joint. They just never go together right unless you do this sort of thing every day. Also, tape the joint together securely so that the caps stay in place when you are transporting it. It is also a good idea to mark how the joint is oriented to the differential yoke so it goes back the same way.

Happy towing!

Oh, by the way, I am installing a new electric brake controller on my F-350 today. That old one gave up the ghost a few weeks ago so I am springing for the top-of-the-line http://www.maxbrake.com/brake-controller.php

Anybody tow with one of these?

Also going to fix the Banks Exhaust Brake that broke on me several months ago.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:11 AM   #23
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if i tow on a dolly backwards as originally planned, how do i tie the wheel straight and have it stay? i always see those guys with a car 2 feet to the left or right.
im wondering too, is my truck bed going to be too close to the tow truck if i tow backwards? those things are sorta designed for cars...not 8' truck beds.

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Old 04-07-2013, 12:20 AM   #24
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When I used to drive a wrecker we'd take a bungee strap and wrap it threw the steering wheel and tie it off to the drivers side mirror or break peddle

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Old 04-07-2013, 12:22 AM   #25
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if i tow on a dolly backwards as originally planned, how do i tie the wheel straight and have it stay? i always see those guys with a car 2 feet to the left or right.
im wondering too, is my truck bed going to be too close to the tow truck if i tow backwards? those things are sorta designed for cars...not 8' truck beds.
The towing companies just tie a rope through the door to hold the steering wheel. And I believe those tow dollies are designed to tow the car with the front wheels on the dolly.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:24 AM   #26
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To keep the wheel straight, you use a ratchet strap from the brake pedal/lever to the steering wheel. This is your best 'shot' at keeping it straight. Putting any vehicle on a dolly backwards is not a great idea. Personally I advise you spend the $$ and use a tow truck. Drive slow and be very careful, it will likely still sway..

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Old 04-07-2013, 12:28 AM   #27
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To keep the wheel straight, you use a ratchet strap from the brake pedal/lever to the steering wheel. This is your best 'shot' at keeping it straight. Putting any vehicle on a dolly backwards is not a great idea. Personally I advise you spend the $$ and use a tow truck. Drive slow and be very careful, it will likely still sway..
A ratchet strap to the brake pedal isn't going to work as well as a strap to either side through the window. But I agree that it is not a good way to tow, especially for any distance.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:36 AM   #28
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A ratchet strap to the brake pedal isn't going to work as well as a strap to either side through the window. But I agree that it is not a good way to tow, especially for any distance.
I've towed countless cars with broken steering locks including a 79' long bed ford with a extended cab with a strap between the wheel and brake, I promise it will work(using a 95 F450 Dynamic bedded snatch truck).
Either way putting a car backwards on a dolly is a horrible idea..
Op, whatever you do be careful, a better idea is to remove the drive shaft and tow it CORRECTLY.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:01 AM   #29
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I've towed countless cars with broken steering locks including a 79' long bed ford with a extended cab with a strap between the wheel and brake, I promise it will work(using a 95 F450 Dynamic bedded snatch truck).
Either way putting a car backwards on a dolly is a horrible idea..
Op, whatever you do be careful, a better idea is to remove the drive shaft and tow it CORRECTLY.
I said it won't work as well. And it won't. Having the strap at 90 degrees to the steering column will greatly reduce the amount that the steering wheel can move. Even if you tighten the ratchet strap to the brake pedal so tightly that it bends the steering wheel you will be able to rock the wheel back and forth quite a bit.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:12 AM   #30
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I said it won't work as well. And it won't. Having the strap at 90 degrees to the steering column will greatly reduce the amount that the steering wheel can move. Even if you tighten the ratchet strap to the brake pedal so tightly that it bends the steering wheel you will be able to rock the wheel back and forth quite a bit.
Just sharing my experience..

Again OP, if measures like removing the drive shaft or calling an actual tow truck or rollback can be taken, they're much better and safer then putting a vehicle on a dolly backwards..
Please be safe.
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