These kinds of projects do end up expensive in time and money, but there will be the satisfaction of putting a piece of family history back into shape as well.
If your tractor needs any major mechanical work that you aren't comfortable doing for yourself, you might ask at the local Community College.I know several people that had old tractors ,who took them to the Prof. training the kids taking mechanics classes, and they did the work at the College shop for the cost of the parts.It took all year sometimes but the price is right.
__________________ Never argue with an idiot. They will just drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.--Red Green
Check it out and see what it needs. Figure out what you want it to be like when you are finished. It can be a money pit if you let it, or a good time with the family if you keep it simple and stick to your plan.
I have done a lot of custom mods to cars and trucks, the biggest money waster is changing their minds half way thru the project or after you have finished it. Water pumps and a tune up is just maintenance so if you can do it, it is cheap, drain the gas tank and run something like sea-foam mixed with gas thru it to clean out the moisture and crud. Good luck.
Don't question my right to own a gun and I won't question your stupidity not to.
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You may be surprised at what you can find locally... I think Case is the current owner of International Harvester/Farmall, your local Case tractor supply may have/order many of the parts you need..
I can usually get whatever I need for my 9N from the New Holland dealer (I guess they have the rights for the Ford tractors)
I'd really like to restore it to new condition but I fear it is a money pit and/or more work than I can under take. I mean I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, meaning I can normally get myself going again if I breakdown, I can change plugs, wires, water pump but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew so to speak. I may just change what's broken and wore out and tune it up and use it like it is.
I do know that about 3 years ago the rear rims rusted out due to that stabilizing fluid being in them. He had a friend down the road patch them but didn't put the fluid back in.
Next time I'm over there ill take a couple pics as it currently sits.
Century Arms AR-15A2, 5.56
1946 Mosin-Nagant M44, 7.62x54R
1978 YUGO SKS, 7.62x39
NEF Protector Pump, 12 gauge
Savage Model 64, .22LR
NEF Pardner Tracker II, 12 gauge
Rock Island Armory 1911A1, .45 ACP
Remington 870 'Express Magnum' 12 gauge
Bersa Thunder .380
new rims can be gotten fairly cheap I have replaced all 4 of mine, if you do use the tractor pulling stuff around you may find that fluid in the tires useful, it really helps my Allis, nowadays they have different fluids than the old chloride which aren't corrosive, beet juice is supposedly the best now. I just picked up a new Kioti 4x4 50 HP this year and want to get that loaded but those tires are larger than your Farmall, it won't be cheap.
I requested a print catalog from stieners so I can look up and order parts, anyone know if there are any repair manuals available like the Hanes manuals for cars and trucks?
before ordering anything you may want to search around, I found All States Ag Parts cheaper than Steiner on the stuff I was looking into, also there's other online sources. Steiner did have a couple things that I didn't find easily on other sites.
. if you do use the tractor pulling stuff around you may find that fluid in the tires useful, it really helps my Allis, nowadays they have different fluids than the old chloride which aren't corrosive, beet juice is supposedly the best now ..
I have an International 856 with the big tires and find that fluid in the tires to be almost essential for any real traction. I have the fluid in the right tire up to the level of the top of the rim. The fluid in the left tire is to the bottom of the rim. Doing it this way off-sets the tendency of the right tire to spin first. On level ground, under load, the slippage of both tires is pretty much the same.