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Old 09-17-2013, 11:38 PM   #28731
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It looks better in person. It'll look even better still when I do a touch up and reblue.



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Old 09-17-2013, 11:42 PM   #28732
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gun..."

Just got done stipling the front strap. May do some touch up later, but it's good for now.

DO you have any advice on Stipling? I want to Stiple my LC9 but that's expensive if I mess up...
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:43 PM   #28733
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Since you got it tore down all the way, how could you make it look "color case hardened" like the frame on my 1858 Remington replica? THAT would be badass.

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Old 09-17-2013, 11:51 PM   #28734
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I don't have a clue what ^^^^ means, So I am just going to smile and agree! :/

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Old 09-18-2013, 12:02 AM   #28735
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I don't have a clue what ^^^^ means, So I am just going to smile and agree! :/
Basically make the metal look like this.

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Old 09-18-2013, 12:13 AM   #28736
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Basically make the metal look like this.

Still functions the same? Does cleaning it change the patina? That is GORGEOUS!
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:30 AM   #28737
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Still functions the same? Does cleaning it change the patina? That is GORGEOUS!
It should still function the same. With real case hardening (like in the old west), the core of the metal is soft, but the surface is really hard. I believe they used two different types of steel too.

Nowadays, this effect can be faked, but nonetheless looks good.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:32 AM   #28738
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For a 1911 I would recommend oil quenching.

Tips on stipling later. Eating dinner and going back to work.

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Old 09-18-2013, 12:42 AM   #28739
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It should still function the same. With real case hardening (like in the old west), the core of the metal is soft, but the surface is really hard. I believe they used two different types of steel too.

Nowadays, this effect can be faked, but nonetheless looks good.
today when color case hardening is done it's simply cosmetic. many years ago, due to the ways that firearms were made and the tools they had, they worked with softer steels. so they came up with case hardening to make the steel stronger after it was machined, filed or shaped. we have much better steels and much better tooling to build firearms from so case hardening isn't needed, but is used to make the metal appear like that of the older firearms.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:48 AM   #28740
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Oil quenched 1911.



forumrunner_20130917_193955.jpg



On stipling. This was my first time. A couple things I learned: keep your tool SHARP. Back up your gun against a solid surface, or use a specialized gunsmithing clamp. Don't be afraid to tap your punch, the name of the game is displacing metal. Start in the middle and work your way outwards, so that you get a feel for how it goes before you reach any lines. Treat these lines like a coloring book, approach them slowly. Hold the punch about 1/16-1/8 from the surface of the metal, pop it with the hammer, let it bounce, just like a tattoo gun. When you follow the contours of the gun, you want to maintain add much of a direct strike as possible, straight into the metal with as little angle as possible. Do small sections approximately the size of a pin head at a time, NEVER bigger than a pencil eraser head (not without plenty of experience at least). Strike your punch with your hammer DIRECTLY. Keep your elbows up, and make a solid strike, otherwise you'll slip around.

This is why the center of my pattern looks different than the rest. These are things I learned along the way.

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