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Old 04-26-2013, 01:16 PM   #24471
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Just stripped, blued, and frog lubed my 1911.

Hope it turns out good...

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Old 04-26-2013, 02:25 PM   #24472
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Just stripped, blued, and frog lubed my 1911.

Hope it turns out good...
Having fun bluing stuff?
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:47 PM   #24473
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Having fun bluing stuff?
Sure am!! I'll post up pics sometime soon of my new shotgun and my newly refinished 1911...

Tip for anyone thinking of doing it: I recommend going with the hot route. Cold blueing is too labor intensive for detail work. Get a hot kit and dunk it for a more even finish

But, if one MUST go with cold blue, the first thing to do is toss those damn applicator swabs that come in the kit, and just use a flux applicator brush. These brushes are reusable, washable, and provide a much more even coverage. The swabs aren't even really "single use". They're absolutely worthless about halfway through the process for a single pistol.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #24474
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Now I'm really wondering how that bar of damascus will turn out, once I make something of it and slap some blue on it...

I believe one word, "sexy", would likely describe it well.

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:08 PM   #24475
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Sure am!! I'll post up pics sometime soon of my new shotgun and my newly refinished 1911...

Tip for anyone thinking of doing it: I recommend going with the hot route. Cold blueing is too labor intensive for detail work. Get a hot kit and dunk it for a more even finish

But, if one MUST go with cold blue, the first thing to do is toss those damn applicator swabs that come in the kit, and just use a flux applicator brush. These brushes are reusable, washable, and provide a much more even coverage. The swabs aren't even really "single use". They're absolutely worthless about halfway through the process for a single pistol.
Can't wait to see the pics. I tried cold bluing once (Birchwood Casey), it did not turn out bad, but it wasn't really great either. Luckily it was just a wall hanger SXS. It turned a light greenish blue. It darkened some with age though.

Not sure of exactly what caused that. I used some of that same perma blue to finish the table top of my scroll saw, and it turned it a really deep, dark, bluish black.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #24476
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A few things about kids for those of you who are afraid to have them
You are and never will be financially ready for kids NEVER
Little kids little money , big kids big money
Your stress level will sky rocket , your hair will grey faster , you will give up your fun stuff or just not have time for it .
You will learn to love spongebob , you have no choice in this matter
Sleep ...... what sleep ?
I could go on and on but all of the negatives are 100% countered by the love and when they sit in your lap and fart then kiss you or say love you or when your sons favorite toy is a M203 launcher ...... its priceless

Dont know what I did yesterday but I really really messed my back up , I did drift the bike a bit by accident but I dont think that was it

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #24477
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MM you'd be surprised how much later a slight tweak of the back can show up. Dec. 29th, I lifted a 50lb. bucket at an odd angle, no pain, no thought about it. The next morning I woke up and my back was pretty stiff, by the afternoon of the 30th, I could barely get out of a chair and stand straight. It took several days and a violent sneeze to get my back feeling right again!

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #24478
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Originally Posted by texaswoodworker View Post

Can't wait to see the pics. I tried cold bluing once (Birchwood Casey), it did not turn out bad, but it wasn't really great either. Luckily it was just a wall hanger SXS. It turned a light greenish blue. It darkened some with age though.

Not sure of exactly what caused that. I used some of that same perma blue to finish the table top of my scroll saw, and it turned it a really deep, dark, bluish black.
I'm using the same brand. I did learn a few things.

The thicker you apply it, the darker it gets, and faster.

Length of time the paste is allowed to sit doesn't seem to affect it the same way.

The directions say, "rinse with cold water to neutralize the chemical reaction." What they don't say, is that when you "repeat steps 3-5 (or whatever) for a darker hue", if you haven't thoroughly dried the piece, droplets and specks of cold water will prevent the chemical reaction from beginning, giving your firearm a spotty look. This has to be buffed out and redone.

Alcohol cleans and dries quickly. But it seems that when it's used to clean and dry water from carbon steel firearms, rust forms in milliseconds.

The directions say that if you see streaks or uneven coverage during the rinsing process, use the provided fine steel wool to even it out. NO. Even the fine steel wool is too aggressive for fresh, unseasoned blue. You'll be starting over from scratch. Use your finger instead, and use it gently.

Let the pieces set as long as possible with a dripping wet coat of oil, within reason, of course. Minimum of overnight. If I could do it over, (i guess i could, but i don't want to) I would just drop the pieces into an oil filled bucket. This darkens and evens the bluing.

Also, on oil bathing... Blue IS a form of corrosion. Cold water neutralizes the reaction with the paste, but maybe not completely, but oil keeps it from "growing". If it's not bathed in oil, the bluing will begin to appear thicker and rougher, the same way red rust goes from a fine, dusty appearance, to a thick, scaly appearance.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:33 PM   #24479
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Great tips trip. I've played a bit with cold bluing myself but Ive been scared to really try bluing areas larger than a postage stamp. Anxious to see how the 1911 turns out.

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Old 04-26-2013, 05:33 PM   #24480
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Anxious to see how the 1911 turns out.
Imperfect, but suited perfectly to it's imperfect owner
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