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Old 10-17-2009, 12:32 AM   #21
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You looking to spend about $600? Can't get a custom bow for that, unless someone has a link to that budget...
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:06 AM   #22
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Another option if you're on a budget is look for a used bow.
Many quality bows can be had that are hardly used, 2-3 years old for half the price.

Lot of guys have to have the latest and greatest uber-cool, flagship model every year. The bow manuf. know this and introduce new top-of-the-line models every year or so to capitalize on this.

For instance I bought the flagship Hoyt Trykon XL. The following year they introduced the Vectrix, following year the Katera, and so on.
A great bow 2 years ago is still a great bow today, the deer cant tell the difference.

A buddy of mine bought a matthews the same time I bought mine. Probly has been shot less than 150 times. He's been talkin about getting a new one.
Paid $700-800 new and he'll probly be lucky to get $250-300 out of it when he sells.
Might be your best option for cheap quality----Ken
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:31 AM   #23
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Bear offered the best advice, I haven't hunted with a bow for several years and understand your reasoning. I have a Browning compound with a three pin sight, never used a peep sight. I don't recall the model, it's in it's hard case in the rafters of my garage. Best I can add to this thread is to shoot often, it's one of those skills that if you don't use it it will deminish. Also much depends on the distance you will be shooting, in the PNW 20 yards is the norm.
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Old 10-17-2009, 04:30 AM   #24
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OK broad heads. I like brunets but not blonds OH wait wrong forum.

I was looking at muzzy is there a plus to the ones that spring open when they hit the animals?

Boy I got a lot to learn.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:21 PM   #25
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There are advantages & disadvantages to mechanical broadheads. The advantages are they fly like a field point with no windplaning-thus making it a lot easier to tune for great flight. The 2nd is they usually open to a larger cutting diameter-making for slightly quicker kills,shorter & more readily visible bloodtrails. The disadvantages are the simple facts that any time there's moving parts, there's the possibility that it will fail to open, open during flight, ricochet when hitting at an sharp angle, or simply break. Also mechanical heads shed some energy when opening.

Good, well designed fixed broadheads very rarely fail like mechanical heads can but usually require precise tuning to achieve best accuracy. Also the faster you launch arrows with fixed heads, the more possibility that they will windplane. I've tried mechanical heads but wound up going back to fixed heads. My personal favorite type of fixed heads are the cut on contact head-that means they have no "nose"-instead have blades going all the way to the tip. The Muzzy you're looking at are well proven design but my favorite is the "Razorcap".

When you get your bow, practice often but not excessive in 1 day. Practicing 2-4 times a week while shooting 2-3 dozen shots per outing will do you a lot more good than shooting until you can't pull the bow back. Hope this helped a lil? Neil
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