Originally Posted by bobski
okay...i think you all are confused.
a tractor is something farmers use to plow fields. say like a ford 2000 series with a bush hog on it. thats a tractor.
now ole farmer boy drives his tractor up on to a (guess what?)...a 5 ton rated tractor trailer and ties down his tractor. then he backs up his trusty pickup truck, hitches up and brings it to another field to do chores.
so...farmer john with his 1500 suburban wants to pull his farm tractor on its 5 ton rated tractor trailer. this trailer is a dual axle type.
are we understanding now?
You are referring to a flatbed trailer, not a tractor trailer. I haul cars, tractors, logs and any number of other things on my flatbed. Mine is a "tag-along", or tows off the rear of my truck which is what you would be towing with a 'Burban. Your 5-ton weight rating for the trailer includes the weight of the trailer itself. Each trailer has a different Tare, or unladen weight. Sometimes the Tare is printed on a decal along with the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) but oftentimes it is not, or it is missing/unreadable. In any case you absolutely MUST have trailer brakes for that size trailer (most states require brakes on all trailers that size). You need to determine how much your trailer weighs and then determine how much the tractor plus all of the implements you will haul with it weigh. I will load my trailer and go to the quarry and weigh it (buddy of mine owns the quarry, so I can unhitch the trailer on his scale if its not busy). You can also go anywhere that has a truck scale to weigh it but some places will charge for this.
I am not sure, but I don't think that even a 3/4 ton 'Burban is rated for a 5 ton GVWR trailer.
Bottom line is that you are on a fools errand trying to convert. The 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles are completely different in the frame, springs, axles, brakes and oftentimes transmissions and engines are heavier duty too. For just the difference in axles take a look at this:
Full-floating vs semi-floating
The full-floating design is typically used in most 3/4 and 1-ton light trucks, medium duty trucks and heavy-duty trucks, as well as most agricultural applications, such as large tractors and combines. There are a few exceptions, such as many Land-Rover vehicles. A full-floating axle can be identified by a protruding hub to which the axle shaft flange is bolted. These axles can carry more weight than a semi-floating or non-floating axle assembly because the hubs have two bearings riding on a fixed spindle. The axle shafts themselves do not carry any weight; they serve only to transmit torque from the differential to the wheels. Full-floating axle shafts are retained by the aforementioned flange bolted to the hub, while the hub and bearings are retained on the spindle by a large nut.
The semi-floating design carries the weight of the vehicle on the axle shaft itself; there is a single bearing at the end of the axle housing that carries the load from the axle and that the axle rotates through. This design is found under most 1/2 ton and lighter trucks and SUVs.
The only successful conversion I could see being safe would be to take a 1-ton truck (if you are gonna make a conversion, why go 3/4 of the way? Go big!) with the right wheelbase and swap the Suburban bodywork onto it. I used to know a guy who did this with a dually truck, making it a dually Suburban. That was a cool truck.