how do you convert a 1/4 ton to a 1/2 ton ? - Page 4
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:33 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter88 View Post
In all reality its impossible because the frame of a 1/4 ton is not as heavy duty as a 1/2 ton so nomatter what suspensiomln u put on its its would just be a 1/4 ton truck with a heavier suspension
Chassis.... I'm not talking about just changing suspension parts.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:39 AM   #32
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Chassis.... I'm not talking about just changing suspension parts.
I understand im agreeing with you all the way
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:16 AM   #33
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A half ton is 1000 lbs what kind of truck do you have that won't carry 1000 lbs?
I can carry 1000 lbs in my 2wd Ranger, sure it is squatted but it carries it.
Just make sure you load it in the center of the truck not at the back of the bed.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:41 AM   #34
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A half ton is 1000 lbs what kind of truck do you have that won't carry 1000 lbs?
I can carry 1000 lbs in my 2wd Ranger, sure it is squatted but it carries it.
Just make sure you load it in the center of the truck not at the back of the bed.
I think you're confused
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:05 AM   #35
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okay...i think you all are confused.
a tractor is something farmers use to plow fields. say like a ford 2000 series with a bush hog on it. thats a tractor.
now ole farmer boy drives his tractor up on to a (guess what?)...a 5 ton rated tractor trailer and ties down his tractor. then he backs up his trusty pickup truck, hitches up and brings it to another field to do chores.

so...farmer john with his 1500 suburban wants to pull his farm tractor on its 5 ton rated tractor trailer. this trailer is a dual axle type.

are we understanding now?
You are referring to a flatbed trailer, not a tractor trailer. I haul cars, tractors, logs and any number of other things on my flatbed. Mine is a "tag-along", or tows off the rear of my truck which is what you would be towing with a 'Burban. Your 5-ton weight rating for the trailer includes the weight of the trailer itself. Each trailer has a different Tare, or unladen weight. Sometimes the Tare is printed on a decal along with the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) but oftentimes it is not, or it is missing/unreadable. In any case you absolutely MUST have trailer brakes for that size trailer (most states require brakes on all trailers that size). You need to determine how much your trailer weighs and then determine how much the tractor plus all of the implements you will haul with it weigh. I will load my trailer and go to the quarry and weigh it (buddy of mine owns the quarry, so I can unhitch the trailer on his scale if its not busy). You can also go anywhere that has a truck scale to weigh it but some places will charge for this.

I am not sure, but I don't think that even a 3/4 ton 'Burban is rated for a 5 ton GVWR trailer.

Bottom line is that you are on a fools errand trying to convert. The 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles are completely different in the frame, springs, axles, brakes and oftentimes transmissions and engines are heavier duty too. For just the difference in axles take a look at this:

Quote:
Full-floating vs semi-floating
Full-floating

The full-floating design is typically used in most 3/4 and 1-ton light trucks, medium duty trucks and heavy-duty trucks, as well as most agricultural applications, such as large tractors and combines. There are a few exceptions, such as many Land-Rover vehicles. A full-floating axle can be identified by a protruding hub to which the axle shaft flange is bolted. These axles can carry more weight than a semi-floating or non-floating axle assembly because the hubs have two bearings riding on a fixed spindle. The axle shafts themselves do not carry any weight; they serve only to transmit torque from the differential to the wheels. Full-floating axle shafts are retained by the aforementioned flange bolted to the hub, while the hub and bearings are retained on the spindle by a large nut.
Semi-floating

The semi-floating design carries the weight of the vehicle on the axle shaft itself; there is a single bearing at the end of the axle housing that carries the load from the axle and that the axle rotates through. This design is found under most 1/2 ton and lighter trucks and SUVs.
The only successful conversion I could see being safe would be to take a 1-ton truck (if you are gonna make a conversion, why go 3/4 of the way? Go big!) with the right wheelbase and swap the Suburban bodywork onto it. I used to know a guy who did this with a dually truck, making it a dually Suburban. That was a cool truck.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:14 AM   #36
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You stick a 500lbs. person in the back..........! Silly ?
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:01 AM   #37
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I'm still unclear as to what is going to be towed behind this suburban.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:07 AM   #38
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The farmer that pulls a load that is way to heavy might be going 20 miles at the most. He is not going very fast and if it takes all day he will plow tomorrow. He is not going to travel a long distance on a freeway.

I moved 60 foot mobile home with a Ford 9000 tractor. It only took 10 hours to cover 18 miles. When I started the trailer moving the right front wheel on the tractor lifted up a foot off the ground. It was not a fun filled day.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:09 AM   #39
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Airlift1000 kit. Additional air bags to the rear coils and increase your towing capacity by 1000lbs. About 100.00 and 1 hr to install.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:58 AM   #40
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/increase-towing-capacity.htm
You cannot increase the towing capabilities of a vehicle.
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