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Gordo323 11-27-2010 03:16 AM

Thanks Tango!
I was looking at the D5000 for only a few bucks more. I might buy it instead.
Thank all for your advice!

cpttango30 11-27-2010 09:19 AM

Best buy is a great place to get these cameras. As they have decent service and you can play with them first.

I like how my LCD flips out and turns over it allows you to shoot via traditional method of holding it to your eye or via live view. It also allows you to get into very odd angles by rotating the LCD so you can view it.

Check out amazon, bhphotovideo.com and tigerdirect.com as well...

A few things you want to get as well.

Good quality UV filter for each lens. A quality carrying bag, a wireless remote and a wired remote. More on these later.

lonyaeger 11-27-2010 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatopardo (Post 392676)
I'd go for a Canon any day of the week, pictures are better, its easier to handle. Nikon is a good camera but if you take photos in low light you'll detect more artifacts, (Artifacts are small orange and yellow freckles in the dark)
Here is the proof:
Look at any mayor sport event, everyone is shooting a cannon, see all those white zooms? Canon, is what professionals use.

http://www.radiantlite.com/wp-conten...ite-lenses.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...eaofCanons.jpg

Rest my case, Gato.

Sorry, "Gato"....I'm not buying that. Read below. And what you said about Canon being superior to Nikon is complete BS.

Google Image Result for http://www.radiantlite.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/canon-sports-cameras-white-lenses.jpg

lonyaeger 11-27-2010 12:11 PM

Tango is right on the accessories. A good case is super important. You'll want a good tripod and don't have to spend a fortune.

Remotes are good....but I don't have one. Instead, I saved my money and bought.....LENSES! Some day down the road, you'll want a bigger zoom than what came with the camera.....and definitely a wide-angle lens. But remotes aren't too expensive and can really be a help in certain situations.

photopro 11-27-2010 01:01 PM

Gordo I am asked your question on a frequent basis usually followed by what do you use ? So second one first I use a "H" system Hasselblad with Phase One Digital back recognised as the best combination currently available, I also have several full "V" Hasselblad systems again coupled with Phase One backs - BUT it's horses for courses. Joe Public usually only sees sports photographers in action hence the long lense picture and the assumption that all Pros use Nikon & Canon.
I would definitely try to stretch to a DSLR as has been said it give you far more flexibility and you should find a wider range of lenses from a greater number of manufacturers if you buy Nikon.
Shooting in RAW files is a big advantage as the initial file size is smaller - good for storage - and can be converted into Jpegs, Tiffs, Giffs, Bmaps etc etc depending on what you are using the images for without loss of detail. Back up your RAW files onto DVD BEFORE you start working on them, then add the capture data. I then archive the DVDs and work on an external HDD.
Correcting imbalances such as colour temperature is a doddle in RAW format and can be done in batches. Incidentally I would recommend Capture One, Phase One's software which is also compatable with all the major camera brands.
Cameras are based on two different sensors CCD (Charge Coupled Device) and CMOS (Complimentary Metal Oxide Semi-conductor) the latter is relatively cheap to produce but gives a poorer image the former requires a sterile environment dust free etc is therefore more expensive but gives a far better image.
I wouldn't bother with UV, daylight or any other filter for that matter it only shoves the last element into the sun and causes potential flare - lense hood in place or not. I used to think it was important to protect the lense but that's just a filter company sales pitch.

Quote:

if you take photos in low light you'll detect more artifacts, (Artifacts are small orange and yellow freckles in the dark)
This isn't true the "freckles" are digital noise, artifacts are OOF dust (usually) which has been picked up but the sensor often happening when lenses are frequently switched.

This was taken on the H2 & Phase One:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ompositeLR.jpg

photopro
P.S. I hope that helps you a little. :)

lonyaeger 11-27-2010 01:13 PM

^^^^^What HE said!

Gordo323 11-27-2010 08:22 PM

Hey, again thanks all for your responses. I went ahead and bought the Nikon D5000 for $150 more than the others, didn't come with any of the extra gadgets but I'll get them as needed.
Now back to reading the owners manual, I think the rest of my weekend is spent on figuring out what all of these buttons and switches do :confused:
Gordo

AusLach 11-29-2010 02:32 AM

This isn't advice or anything, but I hope you see the humour in it :p


It pretty much sums up how much I know about the matter :o

Gordo323 11-29-2010 02:44 AM

Funny stuff Aus, I used to know a little about 35 mm film photography, but since the digital age I have been afraid to learn, I am computer illiterate.
But you can always teach an old dog new tricks!

theferg2000 11-29-2010 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AusLach (Post 393742)
This isn't advice or anything, but I hope you see the humour in it :p

It pretty much sums up how much I know about the matter :o

That was great!!!! As some of you may have seen with the pics of my guns, i dont know anything from a photographers perspective, but i understand the digital end of it all, so if i can help on that let me know Gordo.


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