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Old 08-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #11
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That's what i was thinking too its probably air in the lines. At least purge the system with refrigerant.


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Old 08-04-2012, 12:16 AM   #12
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pulling a vacuum serves two purposes. one, it any moisture from the system. moisture in the system is not compatible with the freon and will cause premature failure or poor performance in the system. second, it will help determine if the system is sealed and not leaking. if it can't hold a vacuum, then it probably won't hold pressure.

i usually would pull a vacuum on smaller systems for at least 30-45 minutes and 45-60 on larger systems. i also would let them sit under vacuum at least 15-30 minutes to see if it would hold without leaking. my rule of thumb has always been if the system has been opened, it needs to have a vacuum pulled. also i use the vacuum to pull oil into the system.

another compressor failure could occur if the compressor is not filled with oil before turning it on. most new and rebuilt compressors are not filled with oil when the are shipped to the parts stores.


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Old 08-04-2012, 12:19 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by partdeux View Post
Did you pull a vacuum on the system before "charging" it?
no , didnt have the machine to do that.... Ya I know not smart . But it went from working to not working. It never had any trouble , the compressor had just locked up. So just crossing the ol fingers xD

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Old 08-04-2012, 02:08 AM   #14
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You probably just need some ball bearings and a left-handed-metric-crescent wrench and you will be all set....
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:20 AM   #15
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What freon did you use? A 96 should of had R-12 in it for do it yourself bout all u can get is r-134 you should use a conversion oil or 134 with conversion oil in it or you might loose your pump.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:31 AM   #16
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What freon did you use? A 96 should of had R-12 in it for do it yourself bout all u can get is r-134 you should use a conversion oil or 134 with conversion oil in it or you might loose your pump.
most of the vehicle manufacturers had changed over from R-12 to R134A by 1992 and 1993. so a 1996 should have already been charged with R134A from the factory.
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:12 AM   #17
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If you did not evacuate, the system is going to give you trouble. Any moisture will eventually freeze at the orifice tube/expansion valve. What Axxe said is what should be done. If it is an r 12 system and you put 134a in it, it won't stay charged 134a will pass through r 12 hoses. Second the oil used in r 12 systems is not compatible with 134a. Also R12 systems and moisture make acid that will corrode your system. Any time a system is opened for repairs you should also replace the receiver dryer.
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:30 AM   #18
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was r134 to start
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:41 AM   #19
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If you did not evacuate, the system is going to give you trouble. Any moisture will eventually freeze at the orifice tube/expansion valve. What Axxe said is what should be done. If it is an r 12 system and you put 134a in it, it won't stay charged 134a will pass through r 12 hoses. Second the oil used in r 12 systems is not compatible with 134a. Also R12 systems and moisture make acid that will corrode your system. Any time a system is opened for repairs you should also replace the receiver dryer.
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was r134 to start
what RJD is saying is pretty much on point and is good advice. the refridgerant used is not important, but that everything is compatible. AC work is very specialized and not really something the home mechanic or DIY is capable of doing because of the equipment required to do it properly. without the proper training and equipment, getting it to work correctly is pure luck. doing AC work on vehicles is hard even when you have the training, experiance and the proper equipment.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by axxe55 View Post
what RJD is saying is pretty much on point and is good advice. the refridgerant used is not important, but that everything is compatible. AC work is very specialized and not really something the home mechanic or DIY is capable of doing because of the equipment required to do it properly. without the proper training and equipment, getting it to work correctly is pure luck. doing AC work on vehicles is hard even when you have the training, experiance and the proper equipment.
Well I got really lucky then lol It's staying cold and not warming up which means the evap core or orifice tube arnt freezing up. I was told MOST of the moisture is in the evaporator which I replaced. We'll see if she holds.

Oh an I checked whether it was r12 or r134 before I even started doing anything to it .


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