Disassembly and Reassembly Savage Model 10 Bolt
Today I needed to swap a faulty firing pin spring. There is next to no real info on a total strip down and put together so I struck out with the tools at hand. You will need a 1/4" Allen wrench, flash light for finding lost parts, 10" adjustable pliers, micrometer, flat blade tool I chose my Mosin bolt tool, and an optional hook that just fits around the bolt body for cocking the firing pin I ended up just using the side of my table.
Note the orientation of the savage logo. In the locked position the bolt's extractor is on the same side as the logo as is the bolt handle.
Savage put a drop of red Locktite on the bolt handle between it and the bolt assembly screw. I had to use my vice and a folded up towel to get enough leverage to break it free. Once you have muscled it free the first time you can just loosen it while the bolt is in the action. Do NOT try to muscle it loose the first time while it's in the action you stand a good chance of hurting your receiver. It really is on that tight.
Note the little lip on the lower right hand edge of the front baffle there is a corresponding cut in the receiver so it fits one way. This orientation is important for reassembly.
Note the orientation of the rear baffle it has a thicker flange part that mates up with the bolt handle more on this later.
The cocking piece pin can be removed by sliding the cocking piece sleeve out a bit by shaking the bolt. The sleeve has a slightly large keyhole that lets the pin slide free.
Once the pin and sleeve are out the firing pin assembly will fall free.
Now the bolt head retaining pin can be removed. Putting a little pressure on the bolt head compressing it to the rear allows you to tap it out with the firing pin.
At this point you can just unscrew the cocking piece holding the firing pin spring assembly together. The cocking piece has a hole for the cocking piece pin that an Allen wrench can be inserted in for extra leverage. The firing pin stop nut washer and cocking piece lock washer can be told apart as the firing pin washer is thinner. Each washer has a corresponding castle type cut for it to fit in its corresponding part.
All the parts disassembled.
Now the fun part getting it all back together with the correct firing pin protrusion. Place the firing pin stop nut and washer on the firing pin. Screw the nut onto the firing pin and place the firing pin in the bolt head. You don't need the front baffle or front friction washer for getting the protrusion of the firing pin. I got the firing pin flush with the bolt head by unscrewing the firing pin from the stop nut until I could feel it flush using the blade end of my Mosin bolt tool.
Then I set my caliper to be zero with the firing pin flush.
The correct protrusion is between .05 and .062 inch. Screw the stop nut in until the caliper reads negative in that range. The twist a little left or right to line up the washer. Take another reading and if it's still between .05 and .062 your firing pin protrusion is correct. This method allows you to accurately set it without the need of a specialized protrusion gauge.
I used a set of 10" pliers to compress the spring with the firing pin assembly resting on the up turned bolt head. Then I put the cocking piece lock washer on and screwed the cocking piece on. This is a lot harder than it seems. You really need a third hand for this but it's manageable.
Correctly assemble firing pin with correct protrusion.
Put the front baffle on the bolt head making sure to align the baffle with the extractor in the correct orientation as noted at the beginning. Then place the front friction washer on the bolt head. Then place the bolt body on the bolt head align the bolt head retaining pin hole with the hole in the bolt and insert the pin as shown with the hole aligned correctly for the firing pin.
Align the cocking pin hole with the cocking piece so the cocking piece lock washer fits in the cocking piece. To do this unscrew the cocking piece just enough so the washer fits and the pin hole lines up.
Insert the assembly in the bolt body so the keyhole lines up and then put the cocking pin in and slide it all the way in to the bolt body.
With the firing pin in the not cocked position attach the bolt handle in the same orientation as it was in the beginning. If you don't remember partially insert the bolt into the receiver and align the handle it only fits two ways so you got a 50% chance the first time. Partially screw the bolt assembly screw onto the end of the bolt body. Do not screw it all the way in just 3 or 4 turns so you can easily cock it.
I cocked it by placing the cocking piece against the table and then rotated the bolt while keeping the cocking piece against the table. The hook covered in tool dip does the same thing.
With it cocked the bolt assembly screw can be screwed down tight. The rear baffle assembly can now be placed on the bolt body. Orient it so the large flange faces the bolt handle. Slide it rearward flush to the handle and rotate until it clicks into place with the small channel even with the indentation in the baffle.
Now your bolt should be properly assembled with the correct protrusion. If you savage 10 bolt or savage bolt with similar construction is stiff to open or close the cocking piece and washer are most likely not aligned properly. Anyway thanks for reading I hope this helps someone in the future.